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Diseases of the Hoof, Distal Phalanx & Associated Structures -- Part I

By Ray Miller / Carla Huston
I want to touch a bit on Diseases of the Hoof, Distal Phalanx and Associated Structures. The hoof/foot is very complex. "By definition, the foot of the horse includes the hoof and all structures contained therein, including the sole and frog. This hoof is only the cornified epidermis of the foot (wall, sole, frog), is no-vascular in structure, and has no nerve supply. Nutrition for the hoof is obtained from the combined coria".
The hoof is composed of the wall and it is approximately 25% water and is a modified cornified epithelium. It has three layers; the first outer layer is the periople, the second or middle layer composes the bulk of the hoof wall and is the densest portion of the wall. This is the layer that contains the pigment in pigmented feet. There is no difference in the make up of a pigmented hoof and a non-pigmented (white) hoof other then the pigments. The third layer or inner layer is the laminar layer that forms the epidermal laminae of the hoof.
The ground surface of the hoof is divided into sections called the toe, quarters and heel. Growth of the hoof wall is quite slow, about 6 mm or 1/4 inch per month. It takes about a full year for the hoof to grow down from the coronary band to the ground surface. This can be speeded up by feeding additional protein. You see this kind of growth when you feed supplements that have a protein base (bean meal, alfalfa meal, sea weed) or when you turn your horse out on lush pasture. Any change will be noted from the top of the hoof first. Not a the bottom.
The Bars, at the heels, where the wall turns anteriorly to from the bars that converge towards one another to meet at the apex of the frog. They run parallel to the collateral sulci of the frog. The sole then conforms to the inner curvature of the wall and to the angles formed by the bars. The sole comprises most of the ground surface of the hoof. It is approximately 33% water. The structure is similar to that of the wall and the tubules run vertically as formed by the papillae of the sole corium. These tubules curl near the ground surface, which accounts for the self-limiting growth of the sole and causes shedding of the sole. The frog is a wedge-shape Inverted V mass that occupies the angles bounded by the bars and sole. It is soft because it is about 50% water. The frog is divided into the apex which is at the front (anterior angle of the frog), base which is the hind (posterior aspect) and the frog stay which is the central ride of the internal surface.
The White Line is the junction of the wall and the sole. It is visible as a white line following the circumference of the wall around the hoof. The white line is the junction between the laminae of the wall and the tubules of the sole.
The Corium or Dermal layer, is modified vascular tissue that furnishes nutrition to the hoof. It is divided into five parts; Perioplic corium, coronary corium, laminar corium, sole corium and the frog corium.
The Digital Cushion is a fibroelastic, fatty, pale yellow, relatively avascular, and yielding pyramidal structure containing areas of cartilage in the posterior half of the foot. The primary purpose of this structure is to concussion to the foot. There are also other mechanism that also aid in the concussion such as the hydrology of the blood supply. The Coronary Cushion is the elastic portion of the coronary corium; it aids slightly in reducing concussion.
Lateral Cartilages are part fibrous tissue and part hyaline cartilage. When ossification of these cartilages takes place it is called "Sidebone".
The Coronary is the combined perioplic corium, coronary corium and coronary cushion; it is the primary growth and nutritional source of the bulk of the hoof wall. Injuries to this structure are serious and usually leave a permanent defect in the growth of the hoof wall/horn.
The Bulbs of the Heel are located in the posterior aspect of the foot where the perioplic corium covers the angles of the posterior aspect of the hoof wall. They are supported by the digital cushion.
The Distal Phalanx/third phalanx/p-3 bone/coffin bone, set on top of and with in these structures of the hoof.
There are two types of Diseases for the hoof: Diseases with Physical Causes and Diseases with Infectious & Immune.
I will cover in this first part, Diseases with Physical Causes.
Hoof Wall Cracks, especially those in the quarter and heel region, are a common cause of foot lameness. Hoof cracks have a multitude of causes. The horny hoof wall often fails internally before the crack propagates externally. Central toe cracks almost always are the result of rotation of the distal phalanx, such as in laminitis or deep flexor tendon contracture syndrome. Unattended feet that get to long. Excessively wet or dry condition or combinations of these may lead to hoof cracks. Conformation may also lead to hoof cracks and not being trim or shod to the conformation of the horse (Form To Function). Incorrect trimming and shoeing create focal foot imbalance, causing abnormal impact that may lead to hoof wall failure.
Keratoma Equine Keratoma is an uncommon hoof disease best described as a tumor of the keratin-producing cells of the hoof wall. The mass is interposed between the hoof wall and underlying third phalanx.
Sole Bruising is a common but often overlooked and underrated cause of lameness. Lameness can be acute or chronic in onset and the severity can vary from barely perceptible to non-weight bearing.
Coffin Bone/Distal Phalanx/Third Phalanx/P-3 Fracture are encountered occasionally. There are two main categories of fractures: articular fractures and nor articular fractures. Trauma is the predominant cause of distal phalanx fractures. High speed impack, kicking a hard object, stepping with high velocity on a nonyielding object.
Quittor is a lay term for necrosis of the collateral cartilage of the third phalanx. It is characterized by an intermittent purulent discharge and sinus tract formation at or proximal to the coronary band in the proximity of the collateral cartilage.
Sidebone is a lay term describing osification of the collateral cartilages of the third phalanx. This is a normal ageing process. The concern is that premature or abnormal osification of this structure may lead to lameness. Most likely this condition is the result of uneven foot impact caused by many factors, including continual work on hard, uneven surfaces, poor conformation and improper shoeing or trimming.
Pedal Osteitis is the demineralization of the solar margin of the distal phalanx/coffin bone/third phalanx/p-3. It is not fully understood and appears to be a secondary phenomenon that must be differentiated from the primary problems.
Sheared Heels is a relatively common cause of foot lameness. The name describes a structural breakdown and ultimate change in the shape of the foot that occur between the medial and lateral heels. The condition occurs as the result of single heel overload, either acutely or chronically. It may be found as a single entity or in combination with other foot problems.
Underrun Heels is the low heel/long toe configuration is perhaps the most important and common foot abnormality. The configuration is so common that is often thought to be with acceptable limits with many people. It is not a lameness in itself, but rather a major cause of foot problems and contributor to limb problems. The presence of the abnormality is noteworthy, regardless of the other problems. It should be corrected if possible.
If you have any of these problems they need to be addressed by your professional farrier and equine lameness veterinarian.
Next month I will cover Inflammatory, Infectious and Immune Disease of the foot.
Information for this article was taken from: O.R. Adams DVM, MS, "Lameness in Horses, Equine Medicine and Surgery, Patrick Colaham DVM Dipi ACVS, Alfred M. Merritt DVM, MS, James N. Moore, DVM, PhD, Dipi ACVS, I.G. Mayhew, BVSc, PhD, FRCVS, Dipi, ACVIM, ECVN. Manual of Equine Practice, Reuben J. Rose DVSc, DipVetAn, MaCVSc, PhD, FRCVS, David R. Hodgson, BVSc, PhD, FACSM, Diplomate ACVIM.
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Hoof Wall Fungus

By Ray Miller /Carla Huston
Keeping abreast of all the necessary information in horse health care is a constant challenge, especially since new problems and solutions are always being placed before our eyes and ears. Horse owners want only the best for their animals, which is sometimes difficult considering they do not always have all the information needed to make an accurate diagnosis of a condition or determine the proper course of treatment that should be taken.
One such problem came to the forefront this spring and summer that has had owners, veterinarians and farriers alike stymied. The signs are hooves that chronically are fractured and poor - looking, with the hoof wall actually peeling away. The cause is commonly believed to be onychomycosis (sometimes known as white line disease), a fungus that exists in the dirt. Horses that previously had strong healthy hooves are showing signs of infection, as well as those who have had problems with hoof quality in the past.
This fungus has flourished in the wet and mild conditions that the Midwest experienced this spring and summer, as have other regions of the country, particularly the northeast. Since the fungus is always present in the soil, all horses are exposed, but inexplicably, not all are susceptible. In a single horse, the animal may show signs in one, two, three or four hooves; in a herd any number of horses may exhibit the characteristic chips and cracks. Shod animals typically develop a worse case, as the nail holes provide an entrance, while the shoe caps the foot and provides an excellent environment in which the fungus can thrive.
Although unsightly, this fungus does not usually cause lameness. However, if the hoof wall chips so that the horse is walking on his sole the owner will probably notice tenderness. Problems will also arise if the cracking and chipping extend up to and involves the coronet band. Treatment is simple. Brush the dirt from the sides and bottom of the hoof and spray with an iodine solution; a dairy udder wash seems to be very effective. Be careful to avoid the frog area and the coronet band; iodine may dry them out. Continue the treatment periodically, depending on the severity of the infection. Remember that it takes a full year for the hoof to grow down, as it begins at the coronet band, so it will take time to evaluate the results of the treatment.
Research has just begun at the University of Minnesota by Dr. Tracy Turner, D.V.M. So far few facts have been absolutely proven, but it has been decided that the fungus cannot be induced into horses' that are not susceptible, and it is not transmitted from one location to another by horses, people or tools. Solid facts are rare at this point, but for more information review the tape "White Line Disease" done by East Texas Farrier Burney Chapman, available at McFarlane's in Sauk City, Wisconsin.

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Body Type and Proper Movement

By Carla Huston BES
The horse world, like many other industries, has its own language that the uninitiated often find mystifying. Unfortunately many people involved with horses still make mistakes with terms, perpetuating confusion and misunderstandings between people. It is very difficult to convey ideas and conditions to another when uncertainty of the language exists.

One of the most common areas where people err with the terminology is with conformation and movement. Not only is one term mistaken for another, but misconceptions abound over what is actually the proper word for the situation. An understanding is essential to speak knowledgeably about horses and comprehend how professionals handle faults and accentuate virtues in conformation and movement.

Many faults related to conformation are not necessarily problematic in them, but become so when paired with another defect. Base-narrow and base-wide are two of the basic forelimb problems. A base-narrow horse is one in which the center line of the hooves on the ground is closer together than at the origin of the limbs at the chest. Horses with wide chests and well-developed pectoral muscles most often show this stance. The distribution of weight falls then to the outside of the foot causing the outside to land first; consequently, the outside of the foot and limb bear more strain. Base-wide is simply the opposite - the legs are further apart at the hoof than the chest. This condition is most commonly found in narrow chested horses such as the Saddlebred and Tennessee Walker. More weight is borne on the inside of the foot and limb.

Toed-in is the position in which the feet point toward one another, also called pigeon-toed. Generally this condition arises from deviations in the bone column higher on the leg, not from the hoof. The affected horse usually paddles when moving. This is an outward deviation of the foot during flight; the break over point is on the outside toe and landing is on the outside wall.

With the toed-out or splay-footed horse the feet point away from one another. This condition usually results from limbs that are crooked from the origin down. A horse that toes-out will often wing, a foot movement where the hoof follows an inner arc.

Another conformation fault of the forelimb is bench or offset knees. The cannon bone is offset to the outside and does not follow a straight line from the forearm. This definitely causes weakness, with the inside splint bone particularly under stress. Splints are a common result.

In the hind limb a common fault is cow-hocks. The horse stands base-narrow to the hock and base-wide from the hock to the feet. The hocks point toward one another, and the feet are widely separated. Along with being a common conformation defect it is also one of the worst. There is excessive stress on the inside of the hock joint and many times bone spavin a result.

Gait abnormalities may arise from many different sources. Conformation defects will affect the horse's ability to move in a smooth regular gait because the footfalls are affected. Age of the horse is also an incriminating factor when problems develop in movement. Young horses need time to develop their bodies and learn how to carry the tack and rider. As they grow, they will go through periods of clumsiness that must be tolerated and understood by the trainer until he once again rebalances. Older horses will experience changes in their joints and muscles that may alter his way of going. Arthritis may start causing pain that affects the gait. Again the rider must understand of what the horse is experiencing. A third culprit of gait problems is rider error. An unbalanced seat, heavy hands or insecure leg could interfere with how the horse moves. A lack of communication may also cause the horse to take missteps, as he does not understand what the rider is asking. In this situation it is critical for the rider to evaluate his own ability in the saddle and take the lessons necessary to polish his skills.

Forging and over-reaching are common complaints during gait analysis. They are often confused and are similar in overview, but closer examination shows a distinct difference. Horses that forge hit the toe of the hind foot against the sole of the fore on the same side. Usually owners of shod horses complain of this most since the colliding shoes make a sharp clicking noise. Barefoot horses can forge too; it just isn't so obvious to the ear. Over-reaching occurs when the toe of the hind foot extends forward and strikes the heel, coronary band, fetlock or flexor tendon of the forefoot on the same side. Usually the repeated knocking will leave open sores on the back the leg. Forging and over-reaching are indications that the horse is moving out of balance, either in the foot specifically or in the entire body. If the medial/lateral (inside/outside) balance of the hoof is off or that from heel to toe, the footfalls and break over will be altered. When the hind leg is longer than the fore or the stride is extended behind the back foot may hit the front. This also may occur with "downhill" horses, those that are taller at the hip than at the withers. Laziness, tiredness and inexperience may also result in forging or over-reaching. A conscientious rider will evaluate the horse's movement and responses to determine the most likely cause of the problem and begin finding a solution if possible.

Interfering, or brushing, is a lateral gait defect. The limb swings sideways and connects with the opposite leg. The speed and energy level of the horse affects the tendency to interfere. For example, one horse may interfere at the jog, but not the extended trot; another may move with clearance at the jog but not an energetic trot. On the front limbs interference may occur from the knee to the hoof, on the hind usually from the fetlock to the hoof. Pain, heat or swelling are normally the first signs and may continue to hair loss on the affected area, cuts and perhaps underlying bone damage. Interfering is generally a result of poor conformation, frequently animals with narrow chests, and/or toed-out horses. Care should be taken when using the horse that he is worked in activities that will keep injury at a minimum.

Plaiting or rope-walking is a gait abnormality that may occur with the front or hind limbs. This is a bad fault in which the front or hind feet travel in an inward arc and land more or less directly in front of the opposite front or hind foot. The horse that plaits has a very distinctive movement and has a high possibility for injury. Not only may the horse knock himself, but there is also a good chance of stumbling or tripping, thereby injuring the rider also. This type of movement is often associated with base-narrow, toe-out conformation.

Problems with movement can almost always be related to a defect in conformation. With proper riding and training these problems can often be overcome. It is also essential to employ a qualified farrier who is experienced in dealing with gait abnormalities and can keep the feet properly balanced. Finally, the owner must realize the limitations that conformation or movement place on the horse's ability to perform certain activities. Find those events that the animal is comfortable with and hold limited risk of injury.

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Farrier Industry-Related Problems

By Ray K. Miller, Jr. /Carla Huston BES
There is an underside of the horse industry that many never see and a few get only a glimpse. One needs to have been in the industry full time for a number of years to truly comprehend that side of the industry. The slick equine publications and breed association literature very rarely address this underbelly of the industry. Indeed, for the most part, only the full-time farriers, equine veterinarians, and insurance investigators see this underside or have any understanding of the true facts of the industry. Generally, the National and State Horse Councils ignore it, but facts are facts and it does exist.
In an effort to enlighten, I have conducted a study of a section of the industry--Farriers. Having been a farrier for the past 37 years, turning my first hot iron/steel at the age of 14, working seasonally for a number of large major horse shows, rodeos and livestock shows, and owning and managing several large commercial saddle horse and packing operations across the United States, I have seen a number of changes within the industry. Fads come and go.
In times past, when a person wanted to be a farrier, he/she found a Master Farrier, spent time working with that farrier and learning the trade for four or five years and went to school to learn the science of the horse. ToDay we have the shoeing schools offering everything from a couple of weekends, to two-week and upwards of two-year courses. It is hard to tell who really knows horses and hooves. At the same time we have gone from full-time professional farriers who comprised 90% of the work force to where 80% is now part time, with only 20% being full- time professionals.
These figures and answers were taken from several web sites on the Internet, personal interviews, and "question and answer" sheets at some of the Horse Fairs and shows around the country, as well as interviews with other full-time professionals in the equine industry. Hence, we have offered up a good cross section of the equine industry, not generally found in current equine publications.
The problems facing the farrier industry are very complex, as are those within the entire equine industry. For the most part, horse ownership turns over every three years. We have a core ownership of about 10% who will keep their horses over a long period of time. The industry has gone from the very large barns of owners and trainers, to the backyard horse and small breeding and boarding stable. There are some large barns around the large metro areas yet, but for the most part 90% rollover in three years is the norm in the industry at this time. That is one reason that the saddle and strap goods and other related manufacturers are able to stay in business and sell the same product (ie: saddles and strap goods that have up to a fifty year life span). That is also the reason that there is very little real research in the presentation of new products within the farrier industry and the equine industry in general. In the past this rollover was at ten years, then dropped to five and is now at three years. This causes many problems with how people learn about proper care for their horse.
Another problem is the cost of owning a horse. Thirty-seven years ago there was a nice tax package and write-off for horse ownership. That is when we had the larger barns and people owning a number of horses, the expense for which they could take a tax write-off. Look around today and those barns are pretty much gone. Places like Robert Q. Sutherland's Quarter Horses, Berbiglia Ranch, Longview Farms and thousands of others. The people that had the real income to support their horse programs. Regardless of how we look at it, it takes real dollars to own and maintain a horse. Again we have about 30% of the people that can really afford the number of horses that they own--the proper care, feed, veterinary and farrier care. The remaining 70% skimp or have very little or no care for their horses. How many times as a farrier you have heard, " I bought another horse, so you will need to give me a price break", or, "Do you know of someone who is giving away a horse, I can't afford to buy another, but I want another one so my ---------- can go riding with me". How many horse owners really have the land, space and wherewithal to support all their horses. Seven acres for the first horse and one acre for each additional horse. All one needs to do is drive down the road and take a look at the some of the horse pastures and barns and how they are kept. Keep a score card. Proper care and space versus improper care and space. Owning and caring for a horse is a very expensive luxury if it is done correctly. Take a look in the show ring or rodeo arena. Those that are competing at a very high level have sponsors. Look at your high-end breeding operations, for the most part they are subsidized by a business or a person earning a large income. Take that income or sponsor away and see if they can stand on their own.
Most owners want to do what is right for their horse, but because of the short period of ownership they either don't take the time or have the money to invest in proper education. So in short, they listen to whoever happens to be the current " in" person, neighbor or friend to learn from. At times it may be a trainer, veterinarian or farrier. They attend clinics, watch videos, read books, but they really don't put in the time with the horse to get a full understanding of the complexities of the equine and the industry. They just skim the surface.
Another problem facing the farrier industry is the number of horseshoers/farriers that are out and about. Given the fact that the shoeing schools have been in business now for the past 25 to 30 years and that these schools, along with the technical schools and colleges and shoers teaching others to trim and shoe and the self-help books/tapes on shoeing, we have around 7000 new shoers entering the marketplace each year. Taking into account the number of years, we have somewhere around 150,000 to 200,000 people that say they can shoe or trim a horse. That is why we hear so often, "So-and-So who just lives up the road trims my horse". "So-and-So's husband does it on the side." Or, "I just want to do a little shoeing when I retire or on my days off." (I will cover this later as to the effect on the full-time professional).
The part-time farrier can never see the number of hooves that a full-time professional does. A full- time professional may do as many as 15/20 trims in a day, this adds up to 60 to 80 hooves and their related problems. He/she may shoe up to six horses in an eight-hour day. Giving him/her a skill and experience well above that of the part-time farrier.
But even with all these horseshoers and farriers out there, every spring we hear, "I can't find a good farrier," "My farrier quit," "My farrier got injured and is no longer shoeing," "My farrier took a full-time job," etc. For the most part, the shoer/farrier quit due to injury or not making a living wage. Shoeing for a living is really tough. Yet a lot of these shoers continue to jump in and out of the business, always shoeing one or two horses for this person or that one. Or we hear from the shoer's wife that he never seems to have enough money--he spends it all on the business-- if it wasn't for my salary we would not survive.
Some say there is a need for this type of shoer/farrier, to pick up the people that can't or won't pay the higher rate for a professional farrier. They say this type of shoer is needed for the dink, unruly, unmannerly horses that the professional will not do. There are even horseshoers in this area that pull shoeing stocks behind their trucks so they can work on these horses, but they do not charge any additional fees. I think this type of shoer perpetuates the misunderstanding of the cost of doing business for the full-time farrier and, therefore, depresses the wage of the full-time farrier. As discussed in other articles, "The True Cost of Shoeing A Horse," and "Farrier Trip Charges," I think that a number of these shoers also pick up a number of the good horses and people who might be willing to pay the higher rate for a good trimming/shoeing job if only they had the knowledge and experience to recognize what good trimming/shoeing looks like.
If a person is fully committed to a profession, would they not then want to make their living and pursue continuing education in that profession? It appears that a person that does it as part-time, a hobby, or for whatever reason, cannot commit to the industry as would a person making a living within that industry. We also hear many times in the questionnaires and interviews the statement; "I cannot charge enough or get enough clients to make it a full-time business. Again forcing the price for farrier services down.
These farriers (part timers) do not have the cost that a full-time professional has. They use their personal car or truck, they usually carry no insurance of any type. They do not have a portable shop or a real property shop. They have very little travel expense. They often use their vacation time from their full-time job for going to clinics, again cutting costs--if in fact they continue their education. The full-time professional must figure cost for this into the cost of shoeing, as well as the cost of business lost while attending continuing education. We see all types of people who have good-paying full-time jobs shoeing horses on the side. From firemen who may work three 24-hour days and then get four days off to shoe, to well-paid "white-collar" professionals. These people enter the horse shoeing field with the knowledge that they don't need to make a living from shoeing. Therefore, they charge much less then the full-time professional farrier can afford to charge. They don't need to cover the same expenses that the professional full-time farrier must. No shop, no truck, no office staff, less travel time, no insurance (Liability, Workers Comp, Health, Commercial Truck, etc.), no sick pay, no vacation pay, no replacement cost of truck, plus a lot of miscellaneous expenses incurred in doing business.
The farrier in the large metropolitan areas can fare better than his counterpart in the small towns and rural areas. In the large metro areas there are many large barns that a farrier can contract with and, therefore, eliminate a great deal of travel time. These farriers are somewhat affected by the part timer, but not by quite as much as is the rural farrier. A farrier working the rural areas and small towns may travel as much as 400 miles a day to do a day's shoeing. That is why you will see this rural farrier put in as many as 16 to 18 hours a day. Half of that is travel time. However, the majority of the one and two-horse stop owners feel that they should not be required to pay for this travel time. I don't know of any other service business that does not charge for the cost of travel and the service person's time while on the road. In the past, it was the norm for the one and two-horse owner to pay for travel time or pay a higher rate for shoeing. You must remember that a farrier at a large barn can shoe four horses in say that one hour to get to the client, one hour to unload equipment, shoe and reload equipment, and one hour to get to the next one or two-horse stop. But because the part-timer down the road already shoes for less, the full-time professional cannot cover the additional travel costs by charging a fair rate for his/her services.
The time is coming when you will only be able to find a full-time professional farrier near the larger metro areas at the large barns, where a farrier can select the type of client that can afford his services. The small towns and rural areas will be left to the part-time farrier.
Another problem that has come about is the horse that is not trained to stand for trimming or shoeing. In the past most horses had someone working with them every day, like at the larger commercial and private barns (Saddle and Sirloin Club, Kansas City area). Horses' legs and hooves were handled daily and trainers considered it part of their job to train the horses to stand for the shoer. This too has changed with the backyard horse and the small backyard stables. The owners all have full-time jobs and just don't have the time to spend with the horse. Most people feel that training starts in the saddle. Many trainers are also part-time trainers and skip important ground work and basic manners. This attitude causes major problems for the farrier in the time it takes to trim or shoe and the risk of injury. Many owners seem to feel it is the farrier's responsibility to train the horse to stand for trimming and shoeing. However, they aren't willing to pay for that additional service and the time it takes to perform. Moreover, to be effective, feet should be handled on a daily basis, not once every six to eight weeks.
I also find that many of the owners lack in the basic knowledge and understanding of the horse. A lot of the owners are even afraid of their horses, not wanting to risk getting hurt themselves. Again, ownership rollover every three years.
We have lost the full-time professional trainer and groom that took time to work with their horses. In some cases, horses are never handled except when the veterinarian or farrier are there. As far as training, most trainers fail to teach horse ground manners. Many feel that training is riding of the horse, so this end of the industry also has it many complex problems.
Another problem facing the industry is that anyone is allowed to buy shoes, nails and supplies direct from some of the manufactures, wholesalers and stores. This creates a problem for a farrier trying to cover the cost of inventory. It also affects the farriers ability to make any markup on product, as the owner knows the cost. Most other industries are protected by the wholesaler and manufacturer. Some of the manufacturers and wholesalers market directly to the owners giving the wholesale prices.
And yet another problem facing the industry is that most of the new farriers entering the industry are never schooled in Business 101 or Marketing 101. Without this knowledge they don't know how to figure cash flow and budgets or how to figure the cost of doing business. I even had one tell me, "you first find out what the market will pay for your service and then charge up to that amount. Then you figure your business expense and profit into that figure."
The following information was taken from 6,000 people responding to the following questions. It will give you an idea of how people perceive the farrier and the industry in general:
Is your farrier a full-time professional?
80% responded yes, 7% said no and 3% did not know.
A lot of owners think they are using a full-time professional when in fact they are not. For example, I shoe one horse in a barn where there are several other owners. They use a farrier that charges 1/2 the rate that I charge and they think he is full-time 40 plus hour a week shoer. When in fact he farms, and works a 40+ work week for another large stock and grain farm in our area.
Is your farrier licensed, certified or holds some type of certificate for shoeing?
75% responded yes, 10% no, and 15% didn't know. Is this a misconception?
How much schooling does your farrier have?
Most responded that they knew their farrier went to a shoeing school somewhere or that they had worked with another shoer. Only about 5% knew for how long. Most of the owners felt that their shoer had gone to school for four years or more, or had served an extended apprenticeship.
This is again another misconception that owners have.
What do you consider a fair rate for shoeing your horse?
The range here went from $15 to $180.00 for a standard set of four shoes. Most stated what they paid. The largest group was in the $35 to $50 range for a set of four standard shoes.
The price for trims was from $4.00 to $90 for trims, the most common price ranging from $12 to $25 a horse.
Do you know what it costs your farrier to come out and shoe or trim your horse?
75% responded no. The largest group that put a cost on it said between $2 and $3 a horse.
Most owners indicated that they felt that 90% of what their farrier charged was profit, when in most cases about 10% is profit.
This shows us that the average owner has no concept of the cost for a farrier doing business.
Is your farrier making a good living?
98% responded that their farrier made a better living than most blue collar jobs and equal or above middle management in white collar jobs. Again, it was felt that 90% of what the farrier charged was profit.
How do you select your farrier?
Price, 80% the first time. After having problems with shoeing or trimming this number dropped to 0. They started looking at education, reputation and full or part time.
Reputation, 10%.
The balance of the other reasons for selection were many: He lives just down the road, he is my friend's husband, vet referral, trainer referral, owner referral, advertising.
Do you have your horse on a set schedule for trimming or shoeing?
65% yes, 35% no.
How often is your horse trimmed or shod?
The range was from every four weeks to once a year. The group with the largest number was every ten to twelve weeks, the next being, "When I think about it". The next group was six to eight weeks.
What is the longest that you have used the same farrier?
The answer ranged from 25 years to, "A new one each time I need a farrier." The largest group was one year--55%, two years--20%, three years--18%, four or more years--12%.
Who knows how your horse should move and be trimmed or shod?
The Trainer--32%, The Vet--25%, The Farrier--24%, Riding Instructor--12%, The Owner--7%.
Does your farrier have a full shop as well as a fully equipped shoeing truck?
Only 25% said their farrier had a fully equipped shop on wheels. Only 2% knew that their farrier had a shop.
Does your farrier hot shoe?
Only 20% have had a horse hot shod. The balance is cold shoeing. The same holds true for a fully equipped truck and shop.
When is the most convenient time for your farrier to work on your horse?
The overwhelming response was evenings and weekends at 96%. The remaining 4% was when the farrier can work me into their schedule.
Do you think a farrier needs to certified?
80% said no, 15% yes, 5% don't care.
The most common reason given for "no", is that it would raise the cost of trimming and shoeing.
Do you think that your farrier needs continuing education in Farrier Science?
75% said no, it's like riding a bicycle or swimming or driving a car--once you learn you know how.
15% said yes.
10% didn't care.
Is your farrier insured?
The overwhelming response to this was yes--78%, The reason being, "He's in business, he better be if he injures my horse, he needs to be covered." 22% didn't know.
If your farrier is injured while working on your horse, who pays the cost?
82% Workers Comp, 3% the farrier, 10% didn't know.
Most owners think that farriers as a group are insured and carry Workers Comp Insurance. Is this another misconception?
Should your horse be trained for the farrier to work on?
62% yes, 38% think the farrier should be willing to train and work with the horse.
How long should your horse be willing to hold it's hoof up?
Over 80% said for a couple of minutes, the balance said as long as needed to work on the hoof.
Are you willing to pay the farrier to work on an untrained horse at additional cost?
80% said no, that is part of his job. The other 20% was willing to pay a little extra. It ranged from $5 to $10 a horse.
Is the area where you farrier is to work, free and clear of junk, kids, dogs? Large and roomy, cool in the summer, warm in the winter? Level and hard surface, sheltered?
32% yes, 67% no. 1% no answer.
Is your horse groomed before the farrier arrives, free of mud and dirt, hooves cleaned?
33% yes, 67% no.
Based on the cost of trimming/shoeing a horse in 1974, $8 for trims and $12 for shoes, would you be willing to pay a farrier the current value ToDay? With the dollar being worth 12% of the 1974 dollar that would put trims at $66.88 and standard shoeing at $99.99?
The answer was no by 76%. The reason given was that the farrier would be making too much profit. 21% said yes. Balance didn't want to, but would consider it based on the cost of business for the farrier.
Do you think a farrier should charge additional for therapeutic shoeing?
70% said no, 28% yes, 2% no response.
Do you think a farrier should charge a mark-up for additional products, such as pads, hoof conditioner and such?
70% said no, they knew the cost and could buy the product and furnish it to the farrier. 28% said yes.
Should a farrier charge the same trip charge as a vet?
90% said no. 5% said yes, 5% didn't know. The reason given for the "no" answer, most of the time was, the farrier doesn't have the same cost as a vet.
Do you want your farrier to conduct his/her business as a professional would?
98% yes, 2% no.
Would you be willing to pay the additional cost if your farrier had an office with staff and conducted the business in a professional manner?
78% no, 22% yes. The reason for the "no" answer was that the farrier can do that work when he/she gets home or while out in the field.
What is the biggest problem you have with your farrier?
Showing up on time--68%. Having the right equipment to do the job, 22% the first time. Listening to what I want for my horse--8%.
What it the second biggest problem?
The largest answer was that the farrier did not have the proper shoes and equipment to shoe the horse.
For what reason would you change your farrier?
Laming a horse, was number 1. Finding a farrier that would charge less was number 2.
Not showing up for the second time, was number 3.
Would you give your farrier a second chance if he/she lamed your horse?
82% no, 12% yes, 6% no answer.
We as a group need to educate the horse owner about our profession. What it takes to shoe horses for a living. The true cost involved in operation of that business. The amount of skill and education needed.
That education and skill is one of the most important things that a farrier has to keep a horse sound. That a full-time professional farrier needs to continue their education. That this costs the farrier time and money. That the time and money must be covered by the rates charged for the services.
The next time, farrier, you pull into a barn or drive, take a look around, do they have the new truck and trailer, indoor arena, nice home, good barn for their horses, more then one horse. Then state that your price has gone up and you are simply trying to keep pace with the today's dollar. That in 1974 the price for trimming a horse was $8 and the cost for shoeing was $12, so with the rate of inflation the price for a trim is now $66.88 and standard shoeing is $99.99. See what kind of response you get.
Or the next time you run across a part-time shoer ask him/her where they work full time and would they mind if you came in and cut their wage and took their job away.
Our farrier industry is in a state of flux, with the same number of farriers entering the industry each year, but with more and more full-time professionals leaving the industry. If all the horses are going to receive proper and correct care, we are going to need to educate the horse owner to what the full-time professional farrier requires to make a living--in time, cost and education.

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Farrier Science

By Ray Miller- Carla Huston BSE-An Editorial
In today's world of horseshoeing there are basically two theories that are being addressed. Walter Koespich of Dutchtown Forge states the following: "Clinical Shoeing and Real World Shoeing. In clinical shoeing you shoe the horse in what ever way is best for the horse without worrying about what a judge may think, and when dealing with a lame horse that is the way to go, before you can worry about how the horse travels, he must first be sound. Real World Shoeing, on the other hand, is the what the shoeing farriers do on a day to day basis. If a show horse isn't competitive, it wouldn't be a show horse very long. If a trainer doesn't produce winners he wouldn't be a trainer long and if show horse farrier doesn't shoe winners, he will be shoeing a different kind of horse before long."
"Shoeing show horses today is a dilemma for the farrier. On the other hand you have the very good principles that are laid down by the educators today and on the other hand you have to consider the kind of movement the judges are looking for.
Bottom line is, judges and stop watch determine how show horses are trained and shod! The farriers responsibility is to shoe for the judge, keeping as close to principles of good shoeing as you can."
My question to you owners, breeders, trainers and judges: Why have we come down this road? What happened to the natural horse and natural movement of the horse?
The following was taken from "Dressage Today", December,1995, "Shoeing for Balance":
"In dressage, farriers aren't compelled to take heroic measure to ready a horse for competition. While other disciplines depend on modifying natural movement for optimum performance, in dressage, the purest gait and the freest actions count most. Unnatural paces or irregularity in the gaits lead to low scores and even dismassal from the show ring."
When it comes to shoeing the dressage horse, farriers generally agree--simple is best. The blacksmith's foremost responsibility is to maintain the integrity if the hoof: balance the foot, support the limb and keep the horse comfortable."
Isn't this what owning, riding, and showing a horse is about?
In my shoeing practice I see more horses that are sore in the feet, legs and back because they have been altered to stand and move like the owners, trainers and judges what them. It seems that no one takes into consideration the well being of the horse. In some cases the horse is considered disposable if it does not meet certain criteria of the movement.
A lot of our problems go back to simple genetics and the misunderstanding of balanced movement of the equine in its "Form to Function" (Marvin Beeman, DVM). The following is taken from a posting on the internet at www.horseshoes.com. A farrier, Duane Alexander, was asking how to shoe a horse with a specific problem. He received several answers and several good suggestions on how to deal with the problem--"Real World Shoeing". Among the answers was this posting from Don Jones, a farrier: "Actually, shoes were invented to stop excessive wear period. Now, however, they are used, to try and correct almost everything wrong with a horse besides parrot-mouth. This has put us where we are today, in a situation where everything breedable is bred, forget about genetics, it isn't important. Veterinarians perform surgeries to straighten crooked legs and we put all varieties of shoes on to correct and staighten everything. Sure, you can probably shoe this horse in a way to help it, but what is wrong with starting out with a horse that has great feet and is dynamically capable of doing the job you want the horse to do."
As owners, breeders, and trainers, do you want to continue down the road of "Real World Shoeing" or down the road of "Clinical Shoeing"? If you select the road of "Real World Shoeing" the farrier will need to become more specialized, six to eight years of college in Equine Science to be able to meet the requirements you are laying down now. the cost of special shoes and pads will increase. Over all, the general cost of shoeing will increase. Horses will become less and less sound at earlier ages. Clinical Shoeing, will allow the horse to be sound in hoof, leg and back. The need for special shoes and special shoeing will decrease. The horse will move in a more natural state,as he was intended.
You are the final JUDGE!
Remember Farriers Resource Center at www.horseshoes.com for answers to all your questions about shoeing, trimming, and movement. Top Farriers and Veterinarians from all around the world are at this site.
Email me your questions at auction@execpc.com and I will answer them here each month.
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Farriers

By Carla Huston BES
I tried to call my farrier yesterday, but couldn't reach him. His phone is disconnected and none of my friends know where he has gone. So I called my neighbor, and he is going to trim my horse's feet, and he will only charge me five bucks. Anyway that other guy wasn't so great; he was too expensive and never on time. I think I've got a better deal this way.
One of the most common complaints among horse owners is their inability to find a "good" farrier. They charge too much, are always late or breaking appointments, and don't listen to you when you tell them what you want are many of the objections to their talent or behavior. Those of us happy with our farriers keep quiet for fear that if he gets too many new clients we will lose him. Unfortunately not enough horse owners really understand what constitutes a good farrier, how to find him or how to keep him. And believe me, if you find a truly good farrier you will want to keep him. With some careful thought and consideration every one of us can find a farrier we can work with and will contribute to the well-being or our horses.
Most of us have heard the old axiom, "No foot, no horse." But despite how much biotin we supplement into the animal's feed or how religious we are about applying the hoof dressings, if the foot is not balanced and trimmed properly for the horse's conformation, the rest is inadequate. This is why a knowledgeable farrier is so essential to your horse's performance and comfort. Not enough of us, though, give this professional his due.
The first step toward a healthy hoof and reaching this Utopia of horseshoing is finding the professional with whom we can work. "Professional" is stressed for a reason; too often horse owners hire an individual who works in this field only part-time. You are not doing yourself, your horse, or the industry any good with this practice. Full-time farriers have much more invested in their profession than the person who buys a pair of nippers and a rasp and sets out after work to knock out a few horses for extra cash. The professional farrier invests in a full inventory of quality supplies, pursues further education in farrier science and may be certified and belong to the assorted farrier's associations. In almost every case he will be much more knowledgeable about his work than the part-timer.
Finding this individual may be more difficult than calling the guy down the road, but will pay off in many ways. To start your search check the classified ads in the horse section of your local paper. Many farriers advertise their business there. When you reach him have prepared a list of questions regarding his business and expertise. Do not be shy about asking for his history working with horses, e.g., how long, what types of horses, and where he learned his profession. Watch for key phrases such as, "I apprenticed under," and others that suggest a serious attitude toward education. Those that apprentice usually work under a talented and well-established farrier, and the potential for learning is great in that situation. Also ask for references. The full-time farrier will have an extensive list of clients, either individual horse owners or barns, and should be willing to offer names for recommendations. But be ready to ask these references some questions; don't take anyone's word as absolute truth.
Another place to inquire is with other knowledgeable horse industry professionals. Ask tack store owners, trainers and instructors whom they use and why. Be sure to ask many people, though, and compare their comments. Personality clashes are not unheard-of in the horse world, so keep that in mind when listening to opinions. Again, be active in your search; ask questions. Once you have some names start narrowing the field, and make a responsible choice based on facts and solid consideration.
A third option is to talk with some local horse veterinarians. During their day they see many horses and are well placed to observe the hoof condition of these animals. The vets have the opportunity to evaluate the farrier's work and often will get to know the individuals themselves. They can usually recommend a competent individual to work on your horse. Also, in many cases the vet will take the initiative and point their clients toward a particular farrier, particularly if the horse needs corrective or therapeutic work.
Hopefully you have now found a farrier that meets your and your horse's needs. The next goal is to understand his position. Since he is (here's that word again) a professional his schedule and price will vary from that of the part-timer. Let's first discuss how best to get your horse booked with an appointment.
The farrier who practices his profession full-time will have a busy schedule; do not expect to call and receive an appointment immediately the next day. Monitor the growth of your horse's hooves and try to call a week or two before a trim or shoeing becomes necessary. The farrier will appreciate this consideration since it allows him to book clients together in a given area and prepare an organized schedule. Remember too that he is working all day with many horses; try to be considerate and avoid asking him to work all night too. Although their days are rarely nine to five or Monday through Friday, as clients we should try to book whenever possible according to a regular work day. This means refraining from asking the farrier from coming by in late evenings or at other times when most people are not working. If you truly have an emergency call don't hesitate to contact your farrier, but be prepared to pay as you would an emergency vet call.
Since you have gone to all this trouble to find a reliable professional it is important at this point to listen to what he says. If he makes suggestions regarding hoof care consider them carefully. As much as you may know about horses, your farrier sees hundred's of horses, day in and day out and has the chance to examine many more animals and conditions than the average horse owner ever will. Along with his education this experience is invaluable when evaluating what is best for your horse. And do not always expect farriers to completely agree on a proposed action. There is more than one way to approach many situations, especially when dealing with corrective work. Trust what he suggests and give his decision time to work; more often than not you will be pleased with your horse's performance. Take advantage of his expertise.
So you have now found a qualified farrier and you have booked appointments with him. You are satisfied with his work and how he handles your horse. Now you want to keep him. This will require more on your part than previously, but if you are interested in having the best care for your horse it will be well worth it.
One of the easiest things you can do is be accurate when you book your appointment. Be precise about how many horses will need work and have a good idea of the type of work you want done. A big complaint of farriers' is arriving at a client's barn with two horses booked and having five waiting. This throws their schedule thoroughly off, and the rest of the day is spent trying to catch up. The same problem arises when a client arranges for her horse to be trimmed, yet when the farrier arrives she decides instead to have him shod. A twenty minute job becomes a sixty minute one.
Next you can show consideration for your farrier's schedule. We have already covered when to request your appointments (please, some evenings and weekends off), but that does not always guarantee the appearance of your farrier and the scheduled time. Unfortunately the best planned days have the tendency to go wildly out of control. Do not be surprised when the farrier is early, late but rarely on time. And don't be upset; those who work full-time with horses are always trying to coordinate time remaining and "things to do." Not only does time get eaten up with extra horses and work, but poor roads, poor directions, and poor weather all conspire to make keeping a timetable difficult. What you should expect, though, is some consideration in return, and warning if your farrier is going to be late or unable to keep the appointment. If he is consistently very late or does not show without giving you notice, he is not acting professionally. Courtesy goes both ways and both of you should expect it and extend it. If an appointment is canceled your farrier should get you rescheduled as soon as possible, but take an objective view of your horse's condition. If his hooves can afford to wait a few days, give the farrier that extra time to fit you in.
There are a few other habits you can adopt that will go a long way toward making your barn a pleasant stop. First, you will have well-mannered horses that are properly trained to stand quietly while their feet are handled. Unfortunately, not all of us own these paragons; if you don't, let the farrier know in advance. These horses invariably take longer to work with, and require a special frame of mind. Be sure your farrier is experienced in working with rough animals, and then be prepared to pay him for his time and effort. Remember, he is risking serious injury when working with those ill-behaved horses. Second, try to have a clean and roomy area in which to work. This means keeping all family critters-pets and kids alike- clear of the area. Nice also is a protected place, one that is shady in the summer, and a wind-block in winter. Finally, have your horses clean, free from mud, manure and dirt. It is always a more pleasant stop when you can leave without smelling too badly of thrush or manure.
The most important factor in keeping your farrier is showing him loyalty. If you are constantly switching farriers, never allowing one a consistent position with your horse, you can hardly expect to head his client list. If you only call for emergencies or to fix another farrier's work, he will not be too anxious to fit you into his busy schedule. The same holds true if you only use a farrier for the busy summer riding months. He has plenty of business this time of year and welcomes yours, but those who stay loyal and have their horses attended during the other seven months are sure to be appreciated and be important to him. Horses still need attending, and keeping their feet is peak condition year round will benefit you during the riding season; both you and your farrier will benefit.
Your horses are very important to you, and any horse owner will admit that they are an expensive luxury. Everything concerned with them is time- and cash-consuming, and quality care is even more so. Don't skimp on foot care thinking that it is less important, and don't pinch pennies by hiring part-time and unprofessional farriers. Consistent and excellent care will allow you to spend less in the end, since maintenance is cheaper than correction. And you will be supporting the horse industry, so that professionals can stay full-time and give you the knowledge of their experience and knowledge.

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Feeding Right

By Carla Huston BES
With the advent of commercial feeds and complete rations available through most tack stores and feed mills, designing a balanced ration for your horse need not be a time-consuming or difficult chore. With a basic understanding of the nutrients required by every horse, the different sources for nutrition and what your horse's stage of life is and his amount of work, each owner can confidently maintain good health.
All horses require the six basic nutrients: carbohydrates, fats, protein, vitamins, minerals and water. Carbohydrates and fat provide the majority of energy to the horse; they are supplied mostly through concentrates. Protein is the building block for the horse, used to form muscle, hormones, hoof and hair, among other tissues. The horse requires vitamins in very small amounts to help as catalysts that prompt reactions in the body tissues. The fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K) are synthesized by the horse, while the water-soluble ones (B-complex and C) must be found in the diet. Minerals are required in varying amounts and are in three categories: major, macro and trace. Since they are found in the soil, different regions of the country have different dietary mineral requirements. Water is a crucial nutrient that must always be provided by a fresh and clean source. Requirements vary by environment, feed and work.
The common feeds can be separated into three categories: roughages, concentrates and supplements. Both pasture and hay are roughages, and are generally high in fiber and low in energy. Legume hays (alfalfa, clover, etc.) are higher in protein, energy, calcium and vitamin A. They must be fed carefully as these amounts may unbalance an otherwise sound ration. Grass hays (timothy, brome, Kentucky bluegrass, etc.) are usually more affordable and contain nutrients closer to the horse's requirements. Hay quality is a key element to horse health. Most important, the hay must dust and mold free; their presence may cause respiratory and digestive problems. Weeds also are undesirable, as they add woody material that has a low palatability and digestibility. The stage of growth also affects hay quality. As the plant matures the protein content, digestibility and palatability declines and fiber content increases. Check the hay for its stem to leaf ratio; the stemmier it is the later in its growth stage it was harvested. Look for a high proportion of leaves, as that is where the highest percent of nutrients is. One other criterion to hay quality is storage. The bales should be kept dry and unexposed to sunlight. Nutrient content decreases through the first six months of storage, but if storage conditions are adequate the loss should then plateau.
Pasture is an excellent source of roughage, as it allows the horse to follow its natural inclination to continually graze, but it is also subject to varying quality. Nutritional value depends on the type of grass present and growing season. Early in the season the grass has a high-moisture and low-energy content. As the season continues the moisture content drops, while the nutrients increase. The geographical area will determine what plants will grow healthily, generally there should be a mix of one or two grasses with one or two legumes. If possible the pasture should be split into two or more, smaller ones so that they can be rotated, keeping overgrazing and trampling at a minimum. Good management practices will contribute to a healthy and valuable pasture. Fertilizers can help keep the proper balance between grasses and legumes, but must be selected according to each region's soil type. Irrigation may help pastures that would otherwise be stressed by lack of water. If the horses are not grazing one part of the pasture, move the water supply, salt or feed to encourage its use. The pasture can also be mowed at regular intervals to keep weeds under control, and picking up manure will help decrease parasites and promote even grazing.
Concentrates are the grains in the ration, which are higher in energy and lower in fiber than roughages. Oats, barley and corn are the most common grains fed to horses. These grains are all palatable to the horse, with varying levels of energy and protein. Mixed together they make an excellent ration. The kernels are usually processed by rolling, crimping or cracking. It is then easier to chew and the digestive juices have better access to the kernel. However, after processing the nutrients will deteriorate faster in storage. Each grain has a different density so they need to be fed by weight, not volume, to be accurate, especially when mixing your own ration or changing the diet. Commercially prepared feeds are easily fed and are of a consistent mix. The owner must be able to accurately read the feed label to evaluate the concentrate for their horse and feed the proper amount.
Supplements are fed to increase the nutritive quality of the ration. The four types are protein, vitamin, mineral and a combination of the three. Protein supplements may be fed when the horse has a high protein requirement, animals that are growing, lactating or in the later stages of pregnancy. Most rations contain excess protein; as protein is expensive to feed, it is more economical to watch your horse's requirements and keep to them. Vitamin supplementation is rarely needed, and it is very uneconomical to feed an excess. Carefully evaluate the ration before adding a vitamin supplement. Injectable vitamins should be used only under a veterinarian's authority to treat a disease or a deficiency. Mineral supplements are often needed to balance the mineral content in the ration. Most horse owners provide a salt block to their horses, while others have a trace mineral block available. The horses will usually regulate their intake of free-choice minerals.
When balancing a ration it is crucial to know the horse's stage of growth and amount of work produced. Each class has very specific requirements that must be met, and it is the owner's responsibility to see that the feeds are proper. Not only must the concentrate portion and roughage portion be balanced individually, but the entire diet, including supplements, must be balanced together.
Understanding where your horse's needs lie and carefully monitoring feed quality and intake can help the conscientious owner provide the best nutrition possible. Keeping the diet consistent in both feed type and timing and making changes gradually can further ease feeding worries. Every owner should have ready access to the National Research Council's Nutrient Requirements of Horses to help them evaluate their animal's needs and provide every nutrient in the proper amount and form. Healthy horses are more productive and easier to care for, not to mention happier. Proper nutrition is the first step in managing your horse's to keep them in peak condition.
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Finding the Right Bit for You and Your Horse

By Carla Huston BES
For many people, selecting a bit is a matter of guesswork, trial and error or habit. Catalogues and magazines offer a huge array of bits, often with conflicting descriptions of their purpose. Everyone seems to have their own theory about what mouthpiece to use when, and their reasons behind the use of each piece are as variable as the weather. But until the rider understands the action of the bit and where the horse feels pressure it will not be a matter of finding the right bit, but knowing how to use it.
There are two basic classifications of bits, the snaffle and the curb, determined by the type of pressure they apply. The snaffle acts on direct pressure. This is the simplest and usually the gentlest bit, good for green horses and green riders, although it is also appropriate for the more advanced. Pressure is exerted on the corners of the mouth, lips, bars and tongue. The mouthpiece may be broken (jointed) or straight (mullen); the joint relieves pressure on the tongue and bars, while the mullen mouth can have a port for tongue release. Severity of the snaffle bit is determined by the circumference of the mouthpiece, the smaller it is, the harsher. Adding a twist, slow or otherwise, also increases the damaging effects.
The curb bit works by the principle of leverage. Any bit with shanks, regardless of the mouthpiece, is a curb. Usually the mouthpiece is a solid bar, straight or with a port, and applies pressure to the bars and lips. The port supplies tongue relief and also puts light pressure on the roof of the mouth. Because of the fulcrum action of the mouthpiece, most curbs exert some pressure on the poll right behind the ears when the reins are pulled. The curb chain, placed in the chin groove, puts pressure there and limits the rise of the port. The length of the shanks contributes to the severity of the bit, with harshness increasing as the length does.
The mechanical hackamore may also be considered a bit, although it does not have a mouthpiece. Used on horses that have injured mouths or that will not accept one, they have very long shanks that exert a great deal of pressure to the nose and chin groove with very little pull on the reins. Improperly used, the mechanical hackamore can be very damaging. The true hackamore is often used to start young horses in training and is gentler than the mechanical. The bosal fits closely around the horse's nose and low near the soft cartilage, applying pressure to the nose and chin. It is held in place with a headstall and fiador, a small double rope that attaches to the heel knot (at the chin) and serves as a throatlatch. The mecate wraps around the bosal in front of the heel knot, long enough to form a continuous rein and attached lead rope. This is a good training tool as it is mild, and also introduces the horse to both lateral and bearing rein pressure, without risking injury to the young animal's mouth.
It is essential that the bit fit properly. The mouthpiece must be wide enough for the horse's mouth. The snaffle should rest on the bars at the corners of the mouth. All rings should be large enough so that they do not pull through the mouth. Often the lips are pinched by rings that are poorly made with exposed joints. Again, the curb mouthpiece rests on the bars at the corners. The curb chain needs to be adjusted correctly, with room for two fingers between it and the horse's jaw. Too loose, it will pinch the corners of the mouth when the reins are pulled, too tight and the jaw is trapped between the chain and bit. The mouthpiece needs to be of a comfortable thickness for the horse's mouth so that he can comfortably carry it.
The effectiveness of the bit only goes as far as the rider; it is only as good as the hands on the reins. It is essential to realize that the bit is intended for communication, not control. Many riders move their horse too quickly out of the gentler snaffle bit because they want "brakes," rather than improve their understanding of the bit's use. When horses develop behavior or training problems, the common step is to increase the severity of the bit, hoping for improved response. Instead, improvement can more often be found by using a milder bit; the horse can relax without fear of being hurt and listen to the rider's aids. Backing the horse up in his training for a period may help him move forward.
Choosing the proper bit is determined by the horse's level of training, the type of riding being done, and the ability of the rider. Bits should not be considered cure-all problem solving devices; they are one means of communication with your horse, and their effectiveness is literally in the rider's hands. Understanding the horse's nature and behavior is necessary, and a bagful of bits will not take you there. But combine that knowledge with a carefully selected bit the horse is comfortable with and the rider uses properly, and the learning curve for both is expanded.

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At Ground Level

By Carla Huston BES
A common complaint among horse owners and their professional caregivers is a lack of ground manners. The animal may refuse to stand still, resist having his feet handled, pull away from or crowd his handler when led, or any number of other misbehaviors. His lack of ground manners may be a mild nuisance or verging on the dangerous; regardless, it detracts from the pleasure of working with him, perhaps even his companionship. However, by establishing limits that the horse knows and follows, he can once again or finally become a well-mannered horse that everyone enjoys.
Most problems that arise on the ground are usually based on a lack of training; the handler failed to teach acceptable behavior. It is easier, though, to get angry and believe the horse is being deliberately disobedient instead of taking responsibility for the holes left in the animal's training. To correct this trend, step out of the saddle and spend some time working on the lessons of the ground.
Patience is a key ingredient to good ground manners. The horse must be taught that quietly waiting is required and will be rewarded. A horse's lack of patience usually shows up when he is tied or held for any length of time. He may pull back, paw or constantly dance around. Teaching the horse to wait is very difficult, since most humans also lack this essential virtue. To overcome ingrained habits such as these require that the handler devote the time necessary to uncover the root of the problem and then finding the solution that will work with that particular animal. Once a course of action is selected to establish a pattern for patient behavior, horse and handler must stick to the program. Begin with short periods, just a few seconds even, and generously reward the animal when he meets the goal of standing quietly. Slowly work up to expecting longer and longer periods of the good behavior. The handler must exhibit patient behavior as well to prevent rushing these steps.
Relaxation is another key ingredient to teaching good ground manners. If the horse is fresh from the stall or small paddock, allow some time in a large turnout, arena or on the lunge line before beginning the lessons in manners. (This is true when just starting the program, however; once the horse understands the behavior expected of him the handler should require it at all times, in all situations. That is why we teach ground manners.) Remove irritating stimulus from the area so that the horse can concentrate. Eventually introduce distractions to test progress. Over time the hors learns to ignore or becomes habituated to that outside stimuli and maintains his good manners. Again, the handler contributes a great deal toward the success or failure of the session; she must be in the proper frame of mind to work with the horse.
Consistent handling is important whenever schooling. Ground manners develop after repetitive practice in which the same rules apply. It is unacceptable as a trainer to confuse the horse by changing the rules or allowing misbehavior one day and punishing it the next. Be aware when starting of the goals, short and long-term, and the limits. If the handler does not know them, it will be impossible for the horse to learn them. Maintaining a schedule also affects the success of the program. If the horse is learning ground manners for the first time, whether young or aged, training should follow a regular routine. If the horse needs a brush-up a more relaxed program may work. Once the animal is well-mannered, standing quietly, picking his feet up on cue, leading calmly, respecting his handler's space, etc., more time can pass between sessions. Even the best trained horse, though, will regress if completely ignored.
One of the main reasons horses develop poor ground manners is the handlers reinforce bad behavior. It is usually inadvertent, but the lesson is powerful, nevertheless. Frequently, patience is expended and the handler wants to accomplish a task as quickly as possible. This is when the bad behavior becomes tolerated, even rewarded. For example, the feet need to be cleaned, and the horse pulls his leg away or struggles while the foot is held. A common response to this situation is to offer a distraction - a bucket of grain or flake of hay. Very quickly the horse makes the connection; "I misbehave, I get a treat." The hard to catch horse learns exactly how long he must play keep away before the snack arrives. To reverse this training is usually a long slow process and requires a total turnaround in the way the horse is handled. The owner must regain authority with the horse and establish a position of respect, understanding how the horse's mind works. Setting the guidelines for proper behavior is the next step, maintaining a clear idea of what is acceptable and what is not.
Most horses are generally good-natured, but without proper training they can be difficult to handle. It is the owner's responsibility for the horse to be safe and well--mannered. It also makes it easier for the proper health and hoof care to be administered by the veterinarian and farrier when the animal is properly behaved. Lastly, there may come a point in time when selling the horse becomes necessary; the chance of his finding a good home is vastly improved when the buyer sees his gentle ground manners.
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Laminitis (1)

By Carla Huston /Ray Miller
Spring brings warm weather, longer days and more riding time, but it also brings a danger to horses that can incapacitate one for life. Episodes of laminitis are common this time of year as horses consume the new grass in their pastures; but while the effects can be long-lasting and devastating, prevention is possible. And if your animal does develop laminitis understanding its course will help you reduce the damaging effects and manage the afflicted horse for maximum comfort and usefulness.
The white line of the foot marks the division of the sensitive and insensitive laminae, and laminitis occurs when these laminae become inflamed. The normal blood flow to these tissues is disturbed, especially in the toe area; this causes an interruption in the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the laminae, without which the cells die. Inflammation results, along with pain and swelling. Once this has occurred, separation of the sensitive and insensitive laminae follows and is permanent. A veterinarian or farrier can identify this situation by paring the sole at the toe and seeing the telltale elongation of the white line.
This acute phase of laminitis is extremely painful for the horse and may be attributed to many sources. Carbohydrate overload, systemic infection, retained placenta and extreme weightbearing on one limb are just a few causes. This time of year excessive consumption of lush green grass is a leading instigator of laminitis. Horses that are overweight, especially those that have developed a crest in their neck (indicating an excessive amount of fatty tissue), are particularly prone to laminitis. Ponies, too, show a high incidence, perhaps because of their metabolism.
Signs of acute laminitis are profound and are mostly linked to the animal's response to the pain. Usually only the forefeet are affected, and the horse takes on a characteristic stance with the hindlegs well under the body and the front extended forward. This position allows the animal to take pressure off the front feet. The horse is very reluctant to move, and when he does he has a stiff-legged gait, setting the heels down first. If all four feet are involved the animal will spend a great deal of time lying down. Examination of the foot itself will reveal an elevated temperature in the hoof at the wall, sole and coronary band. A pounding pulse is present in the digital arteries, most readily felt at the fetlock joint.
Founder occurs after the horse has passed through acute laminitis; it may happen in the initial episode or during a later attack. The identifying factor of founder is rotation of the coffin bone within the hoof capsule. Often accompanying it is a dropped sole. Because the laminae are damaged, the internal structures lose their support, and the pull of the deep digital flexor tendon causes rotation. If the rotation becomes advanced the coffin bone can eventually penetrate the sole of the foot. The degree of rotation can only be determined by radiographs. Hoof growth is altered also at this point. The development of new wall is impaired, especially in the toe region. Rings on the hoof wall illustrate the changed growth pattern and are very prominent in chronic founder, often diverging from toe to heel.
Treatment of acute laminitis consists mainly of eliminating the cause and alleviating the pain. In the case where overconsumption of grass is the culprit, the animal needs to be moved to a drylot and kept on a diet of hay and water. Historically, treatment included a regimen designed to decrease the temperature of the foot and diuretics to flush the horse's system of toxins, however, this is only successful when caught in the very early stages. Walking is important for blood flow within the foot, so the horse should not be confined to a stall. Too much exercise, though, is risky as it may promote more rotation of the coffin bone. Keep the animal on soft footing to reduce concussion on the sole and provide sufficient bedding so that he can lie down with comfort. The veterinarian may prescribe drug therapy to alleviate the intense pain in the early stages.
The farrier plays a crucial role in maintaining the horse with laminitis and especially founder. Proper trimming and therapeutic will often restore all but the most severe cases to a higher comfort level, while milder ones may be able to work again. The most effective shoeing regimen involves a bar shoe, straight, egg or heart, that transfers pressure from the injured toe area to the heels. Many horses, after application of the appropriate shoe, will walk off displaying little discomfort. These shoes require careful maintenance, though; they must be cleaned daily and checked for tightness against the foot, and the horse cannot be turned into muddy paddocks. The farrier should visit the horse every four to eight weeks to trim the hoof or reset the shoe, since it is essential that the heels and toes of the affected feet be kept balanced and in the proper proportions. For the owner management consists mostly of carefully monitoring the animal's diet and workload. It is also the owner's responsibility to involve both the veterinarian and farrier in the horse's rehabilitation schedule. These professionals are necessary for recovery. Applying and resetting shoes may require the veterinarian's presence and the use of a tranquilizer as the pounding of nails in the feet may prove painful. Periodic radiographs of the coffin bone are also helpful in tracking the progression of the condition and making shoeing decisions.
With the help of a professional farrier and veterinarian, and conscientious care from the owner, the horse with laminitis or founder has a promising future. He may not return to the previous level of work, but will certainly have a more comfortable life. Quick identification of laminitis and immediate treatment will help limit the effects. Proper management will slow or prevent its progression. But the best bet is to take all steps possible to diminish the chance of laminitis occurring.
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Laminitis (2)

By Carla Huston, BES /Ray Miller
Laminitis is the inflammation of the sensitive laminae in the hoof. When the normal blood flow to these tissues is disturbed the cells become damaged and die, producing the inflammation. As with all inflammation, swelling occurs between the hoof wall and the sole causing the acute pain. This condition usually occurs in the forefeet, but occasionally is seen in the hind also. Ponies are especially susceptible, but any equine may develop laminitis.
Lameness is almost always present in acute cases of laminitis, with obvious pain reactions displayed when the foot is tapped with a knife handle or hammer. Often the horse or pony will stand with his hind legs placed underneath himself in an attempt to relieve the weight on the front. In more severe cases the animal is reluctant to move, and may even resist standing. Heat can often be felt in the foot with a pounding pulse present in the fetlock joint. A farrier's examination of the sole will reveal telltale separation of the laminae that occurs with the inflammation.
The causes of laminitis are widely varied. The most common is an overload of grain or lush spring grass. Laminitis can also be brought about by an excess of water, a portion of retained afterbirth or abortion in a mare, generalized toxemia, excessive weightbearing on one leg, or excessive work on hard ground. Stress can also induce an episode of laminitis. Once the animal has a case of laminitis they are more prone to future experiences, and require special maintenance from their owners.
Treatment of laminitis involves eliminating the cause and alleviating the pain. The horse or pony may need to be kept in a dry lot to avoid consumption of grass, and the scrupulous removal of all grain from the diet is necessary. Pain-relieving drugs may be administered to make the animal more comfortable. Moderate exercise is important for the blood flow within the foot, but overexercise could be extremely detrimental. A veterinarian and professional farrier may agree to fit the horse or pony with a set of heartbar shoes. These shoes follow the shape of the frog and help relieve pressure by transferring it to the frog area. They require daily maintenance and frequent resetting.
Severe laminitis can lead to a condition known as founder. This occurs when the laminae actually breaks down. The sensitive laminae interlock with the insensitive and support the coffin bone. When the bone is no longer supported it begins to rotate down, causing the sole to drop and even become convex. Ultimately the tip of the bone may protrude through the sole. This is a very serious condition and causes the animal extreme pain.
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Living with Lameness

By Carla Huston
When a healthy horse comes up lame, it is disturbing for every one, the owner, veterinarian, farrier and trainers, instructors and other riders. Whether it is a top-level show horse, local competitor or weekend trail companion a sore horse is heartbreaking, especially since many animals will continue with the same high effort, even though they are in pain. Lameness may mean an end to a career, and extended lay-up or time-consuming health care from the owner; all are situations every horse owner wants to avoid. A savvy owner, though, knows the facts off her horse's case, and armed with that knowledge can make caring and smart choices about the future.
The first step when lameness appears is to get a complete medical work-up, regardless if it was a slow-developing problem or an acute onset of pain. A veterinarian can give a much more intensive examination than anyone else and will have the equipment necessary for diagnostic procedures. It is very important that the owner is prepared to give information regarding the animal's circumstance. How long has the lameness existed? What leg or legs are affected, and can it be narrowed down to a rough location? What are the symptoms - an off - feeling while under rider; head-bobbing at the walk, trot or canter; or an unusual stance? Having this information will often help the veterinarian pinpoint the area to observe and test, although some vets may prefer to go into the examination blind, leaving them with an open mind. Sometimes the source of the pain may be very different from where the lameness indicates.
Diagnostic procedures may vary some from one veterinarian to another, but will follow a general pattern. First is observation of the animal at rest and in movement. The horse's attitude when standing unbothered is very telling, as is his way of going when trotted on straight lines and circles. While the horse is standing his conformation can be assessed and any correlations made between faults and potential problems. Certain conformational abnormalities may predispose an individual to lameness. A history can also be taken at this time, with the owner describing the horse's training program, competition schedule and any training or behavioral problems while under saddle (pain is often the reason for these problems). This time can also be used to evaluate the horse's symmetry and temperament. While the horse is standing firmly square, observe the balance of bones and muscles, any appearance of atrophy or disuse. The horse's temperament has a very important influence on pain indication; a highly-strung individual will usually show stronger reactions to pain than a more stoic horse.
The horse's movement is watched while he is trotted on a hard, level surface. On hard ground the footfalls can be both heard and seen. With the horse's head unrestricted the handler moves him off at a trot. The vet will observe his movement from straight on and the side as the horse moves toward and away from him. The foot of each limb should land squarely and with equal intensity. Each stride should be balanced, rhythmic and even. A short stride may indicate a problem with that diagonal. Circles are also a useful tool for evaluating a lameness. This will show the horse's flexibility and his ability to move each leg away from the body or toward the opposite leg.
Next the veterinarian will perform a flexion test. A joint is held partly flexed for about one minute and then the horse is immediately trotted off. This process will usually accentuate any existing lameness in the stressed joint. It is difficult to be specific about the sore joint since it is impossible to flex only one joint at a time, but it can still be very helpful.
At this stage the lame leg of legs should have been identified. To help pinpoint the exact trouble spot nerve blocks are used. Local anesthesia is injected over a nerve, starting at the lowest point of the affected leg. The nerve impulses are temporarily stopped, allowing the horse to move pain free. If the pain persists then further blocks need to be performed, farther up the leg. In the circumstance where the lameness is only eased, not eliminated, then the problem most likely is not limited to only one location. In order for this process to succeed there must be significant lameness to start with so that improvement can be evaluated.
Radiographs are used once the source of pain has been identified. This provides a two-dimensional view of the bony structures of the leg. Many views must be taken to get a complete picture. The radiographs do not provide much information about soft-tissue injuries or problems within a joint. Bony changes can be identified, though. Interpretation is a large part of making a diagnosis with radiographs, and they are most useful when considered with the other test results. Some very slight lamenesses may show up as insignificant alterations in the bone, enough, though, to cause discomfort to the horse.
All these tests can be performed by a veterinarian in private practice, either at the barn or at the clinic. If at this point results are still inconclusive it may be necessary to haul the horse to a teaching hospital where more in-depth testing is available. One of the more advanced methods of diagnosis is nuclear scintigraphy or bone scanning. A radioactively labeled bone-seeking substance is injected into the jugular vein and is distributed to the bones after several hours. The radioactive substance accumulates in areas of increased bone activity or blood flow to the bone, which is then detected by a gamma camera. This test is more accurate for acute injuries rather than chronic problems. Nuclear scintigraphy is potentially more descriptive than radiography, but cannot be used as a replacement. The two techniques should be considered complimentary.
Soft-tissue damage can be evaluated using diagnostic ultrasound. The ultrasound waves are reflected from the tissue and played back on a monitor. The images must be high-quality to accurately assess the damage. Enlargement of a tendon or poor definition of the structures can be determined with this too. Progress is also monitored with ultrasound during periodic evaluations.
Once the veterinarian makes a diagnosis the farrier can be a horse's best friend. With his expertise many options may be open to the horse and owner. Therapeutic trimming and shoeing may make the horse more comfortable, usable once again, or even return him to his former level of activity. Many types of shoes exist that will relieve pain and allow the horse to move more naturally. However, it requires a very knowledgeable professional to perform this work, as well as one who can discuss the case with the attending veterinarian. The vet may write a specific prescription for the farrier or leave him to make the shoeing decisions. Either way it is essential that the veterinarian and farrier maintain a good working relationship. The owner's patience is also an essential requirement for the farrier's success. Often there is more than one way to address a lameness; the farrier will usually choose the simplest and least expensive method first. If that does not work he will move up the scale to more intensive work. However, it will probably require several months to find the best therapy, and the owner must show patience through this process.
When a horse is diagnosed with a chronic lameness the owner needs to take serious stock in her horse life. It may be possible for the animal to remain at the same activity level with veterinary and farrier assistance, but usually some adjustments will need to be made. If the horse competes, it may be necessary to drop to a lower level or even leave the show ring entirely. In this case is the owner willing to scale back her own goals to fit with the horse's altered abilities? At this point selling the horse is often considered. It is unfair to expect the horse to perform when burdened by lameness, and a more suitable home should be found.
Many times a horse that has a manageable lameness problem but is well-trained with a kind disposition will make a good mount for someone learning the ropes of a sport, looking for a school horse. However, be certain to inform a prospective buyer of the problem and that he is prepared to provide the care necessary. Sometimes a change in discipline is sufficient to keep a horse in work and useful. A show-jumper with a forelimb lameness may perform in the lower levels of dressage. Or a performance competitor may find a niche as an equitation mount. And using care and caution most horses can be suitable trail mounts. Retirement is sometimes the only option for extreme cases or with degenerative conditions.
Living with lameness is possible when the owner knows the facts. That is why a veterinary diagnosis is so crucial to the horse's well-being. Neither the owner nor the farrier can make sound decisions without that baseline. It is also essential that all three can work together in the horse's therapy and maintenance. But it is ultimately the owner's responsibility to keep the animal's best interests in the forefront and make the choices that will benefit the horse.
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Making Hay

By Carla Huston, BES
Living as we do in the Midwest, feeding hay is a necessity, certainly in the winter and for some all year. Unfortunately, many horse people do not know what constitutes good horse hay. Instead they rely on traditional feeds, the advice of other unknowledgeable owners and availability of product to determine their buying choices. A number of criteria must be evaluated, though, to establish which hay will be best for the horse. A general understanding of the factors that affect quality will aid in selecting a hay to feed your own herd.
There are two types of plants that are harvested into hay. Legumes, clover and alfalfa, for example, have bacteria in the root nodules that use nitrogen from the air and produce higher levels of protein. Legume hays also have a higher energy content, as well as calcium and phosphorus levels. Alfalfa and clover hay are very palatable, and horses will readily consume this feed. Unfortunately, because of its high nutritional plane it takes very little to satisfy the average horse's nutritional needs. To keep the horse from overeating very small portions must be fed. Consequently, many individuals are left with unsatisfied hunger because they cannot keep their stomachs full. Legume hays are also more expensive than grass hays. For the owner it is usually an unnecessary expense since the excess nutrients are eliminated by the horse in the urine. High-performance athletes may benefit from a ration containing alfalfa or clover hay, since their energy requirements are higher. The protein and mineral levels are still high, though, and should be considered when designing the horse's diet.
Grass hays include timothy, brome, Kentucky bluegrass, oat and barley, to name a few. These types are generally more in line with the adult horse's requirements. Harvested properly, these hays are also very palatable, and the horse readily consumes them. It is possible to feed more without overloading the horse with calories or other nutrients. The animal, therefore, is kept busy with the hay, mimicking more closely the natural pattern of grazing. Grass hays are less expensive, so even though the horse eats more of it, the ration is still cheaper to feed. A horse on a maintenance diet or in light work can probably subsist on grass hay alone, provided it is of high-quality. For those at a higher level of activity the addition of grain (determined according tho the increased need) can provide the extra energy.
Hay quality can be judged by many factors; the most important is the plant's stage of maturity at cutting. The stem contains the fiber while the leaves hold the other nutrients. As the ratio of stem to leaf content increases so does the fiber content. As the plant then grows from the vegetative to the reproductive stage, the palatability, protein content and digestibility decrease. For maximum nutrient content, legumes are harvested when a few flowers start to appear in the field. Grasses are harvested when seed heads start to appear. Many cuttings may be produced every season and can vary in nutritional values. The number of cuttings depends on the region of the country it is grown and the length of the growing season. The first cutting often contains more weeds and has less nutritional value than later cuttings.
Weather conditions at harvest also contribute to the quality of the hay. Rain and sunlight have a large impact on the finished product. Excessive rainfall has many detrimental effects on the cut plant. When overly wet, leaves can be beaten from legumes, soluble carbohydrates are leached out and the hay is packed down so it does not dry properly. If baled in a damp condition, mold is certain to develop, and the bale is in danger of spontaneous combustion from internal fermentation. Too much sunlight can cause a loss of vitamin A, by bleaching color from the plant.
Knowledgeable evaluation of hay is critical for the horse owner to purchase good quality at a fair price. First check for flowers or seed pods; this will indicate the stage of maturity at harvest. There should not be any mature seeds or plants in full bloom. Then estimate the leaf to stem ration. The leafier, the higher the percent nutrient, while the stemier, the higher percent fiber. Color and smell are also indicative of hay quality. Check for a bright green color that shows minimal bleaching and loss of nutrients. The hay should have a fresh clean smell. Any sign or smell of mold or dust eliminates that bale as a horse feed. Horses are very sensitive to those particles, and ingestion of them could cause many physical problems. Also undesirable are any foreign materials such as sticks, weeds, dirt, paper, etc. These are dangerous to the horse and a waste of money. If buying a large lot of hay, it may be wise to send a sample to a laboratory for accurate analysis of nutrient content. When the hay is of top quality it is more valuable; be prepared to pay more for it than for a load that is not as good. However, paying more per ton for top quality hay will save the buyer money in the long run, since less can be fed to maintain a level of nutrition and less is wasted from dust, mold or trash.
With a knowledgeable eye and an understanding of what constitutes good horse hay, horse owners can supply their animals with a nutritional feed for the cold winter months. Many horses can subsist quite well on a ration strictly of grass hay. Watch the horse's condition as the winter progresses and use him as the guideline for how much to feed.

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Navicular Syndrome

By Carla Huston, BES /Ray Miller
Navicular syndrome is so called because a number of conditions may cause the pathological changes and clinical signs, and many structures may be involved. The navicular bone lies on the back of the coffin bone, with the navicular bursa, a small fluid-filled sac, between them. The small boat-shaped bone serves as a pulley for the deep flexor tendon that glides along its underside. Navicular syndrome is a degenerative process that can affect the bone, bursa or tendon.
This condition occurs almost exclusively in the front feet, and usually affects both feet. The first signs of navicular are a shortening of the stride and slight unevenness on turns. Because both forefeet are affected simultaneously, obvious lameness is not commonly observed. Instead, the horse appears reluctant to go forward properly or lengthen his stride. Pointing is another common sign; the horse will stand at rest with one leg extended, the weight resting on the toe. When the foot is pressure tested, the horse will usually indicate pain at the heels. X-rays do not always detect early signs of navicular since the soft tissues are usually the first problem areas. The cartilage on the underside of the navicular bone and the deep flexor tendon become inflamed first.
The causes of navicular, unfortunately, are usually manufactured. First, horses with small feet (too small for their weight) are predisposed to this condition. The support structures in the hoof are designed by nature to absorb shock and carry the horse; the smaller the hoof in relation to the horse's size, the greater the shock to the navicular bone. Breeders often select for small feet, believing them more "attractive." A second cause is using the horse in stressful athletic activities for which they are not suited. Circulation trouble is the first step in the breakdown. The reduced blood flow weakens the structure and leads to the deterioration. Horses that undergo a fair amount of percussion on the forefeet are inclined to experience navicular syndrome.
No single treatment is uniformly successful in treating navicular. These therapies treat the symptoms, but the syndrome is irreversible. The possibilities range from drugs to corrective farriery work and surgery to retirement. Bute and other anti-inflammatory drugs will alleviate pain. The administration of warfarin in the feed may help some horses. This drug prolongs the blood clotting time, but is potentially dangerous, and permanent medication is usually necessary. Why the drug works is not known. Also occasionally successful is the administration of isoxuprine, also delivered through the feed or in a paste. The peripheral blood vessels are dilated, improving circulation. Isoxuprine is usually only successful in the early stages of the syndrome. The foot must be properly trimmed, with the toes kept short and the foot balanced. Therapeutic shoeing may include an egg bar shoe with wedge pads, or the newly developed Tennessee Navicular shoe. Neurectomy is a surgical option for the navicular horse. This procedure involves removing a small piece of the two nerves that innervate the area. The nerves may regenerate, however, and daily care of the foot must be observed to recognize any injuries to the foot. Finally, for the advanced navicular syndrome, retirement may be the only recourse. This should include daily turnout to maintain regular bloodflow and promote healthy hoof growth.

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Save Money Feeding Your Horse

In this market of high hay and grain prices. USE Ration analysis in determing proper nutrition. Balance Hay, Grain & Supplemnets, to you horses needs. Indvidualized for each horse. Following NRC requirements for horses. Avoid feed reltated problems & save money. We use an NRC computer program to do the analysis. We are not feed or supplement dealers. You will receive honest and CORRECT INFORMATION on what your horses need. 3:03PM 12/15/96 Carla Huston BS/Equine Science or Ray Miller MS/Equine Science. Call 1-800-354-8512
Ray Miller Horse Shoeing Service, 50 years experience, CMF, MS/Equine Science, Colorado Board Colleges Teaching Cerift. Equine Science/Equine Management, Arizona Race Track Lic.
Carla Huston, BS/Equine Science, 32 years in the Equine Industry, Equine articles published localy and Nationaly. New Shoes, trims, resets, Therapeutic. Working to keep the horse sound.

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Selecting for the Best

By Carla Huston, BES
January usually brings an influx of articles and advertisements for the breeding season, trying to entice mare owners and future buyers to look at their stock. Evaluating this onslaught of information from handsome stallions to frolicking foals, can be intimidating, but it is essential to realistically judge the strengths and weaknesses of each individual. As horse owners, and particularly as breeders our responsibility is to maintain the quality of each breed by selecting for those traits that bring the horse closest to the breed "ideal."
Mare owners first and foremost need to objectively appraise their horse. This includes assessing her physical characteristics, temperament and any singular talents. First, her physical attributes must be as close to correct as possible for her breed and discipline. Start at the ears and move through to toes and tail. Note every aspect that does not meet the highest standards; they need to be weighed against the good traits, which faults are acceptable and which eliminate her from the breeding barn. This in no way diminishes the mare's quality as an individual, it simply means her breeding potential is not of the highest caliber. Next evaluate her disposition; in this area there is no room for anything but the finest. The mare should be exemplary in her temperament and attitude. The dam contributes a majority of the inherited traits for disposition and is also the source of most early learned behavior. Therefore, it is critical to the foal's development and future handling that he have the very best genes and teacher in a quiet, well-mannered, good-natured mother. Finally, explore the mare's talents and athletic potential. There are many differences between all breeds and within each breed in body type and ability. Knowing where a certain mare fits will help the breeder select a stallion that will complement her, or help to predispose the foal toward a chosen activity. If the mare is truly outstanding the stud should be carefully chosen so he emphasizes the qualities that contribute to her talent and not dilute them.
If the mare has met these criteria and the breeder has the knowledge and finances, the next step is to select a stallion. With a physical evaluation you can determine his good and bad qualities, just as was done with the mare. Hopefully, the positives heavily outweigh the negatives. Balance the mare's weaknesses with the stallions strengths. For example, if the mare has longer than ideal pasterns compensate with a stud whose attributes include short strong pasterns. Or if she has a superior, long and elegant neck, some may forgive a short thick one on the stud if he shows other characteristics that are important to the mare owner. Once the choices have narrowed through appraisal of the individual, gather information on his siblings and progeny. His siblings will indicate whether he is the norm for his bloodlines or an exception. They will also show if the family excels in a particular or range of activities. Viewing the offspring will help determine if his qualities are passed on (remember that the assorted mares will contribute 50% of the genes). If certain attributes or weaknesses show up repeatedly in foals out of different mares there is a good indication that the stud is providing those genes. Judge how they will combine with your mare. At least assemble pictures and videos of as many family members as possible if it is impossible to view them personally.
Stallion owners presumably have already gone through the critical, objective judging of their animal since he is still intact. But their responsibility does not end there. It is necessary that they exercise the same care when selecting which mares to book as the mare owners used to choose the stallion. Each foal on the ground is a walking advertisement for the stud - good and bad. Therefore, choosing only the highest quality mares will help tip the balance toward a superior foal. If the mare does not meet the set-forward criteria do not hesitate to eliminate her from the book. The stallion owner has the final say on what is acceptable and should take that responsibility very seriously.
Deciding to become a breeder, small or large, as mare owner, stallion owner or both should be exciting, educational and enjoyable. But it is also a huge undertaking. By keeping eyes open, and reviewing all information intelligently and objectively, producing quality foals is quite possible. Most of all the standards of the breed will be maintained, without being corrupted by momentary trends and injudicious pairings.

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Stress-Free Foaling

By Carla Huston, BES
The prospect of your mare foaling is a highly anticipated one, but may also be an anxiety-inducing one. So much is invested in the foal - financially and emotionally - that it is difficult to relax and enjoy the event. Understanding the stages of parturition will help to relieve some anxiety and answer some questions about what is normal and when an owner should be concerned.
Before parturition takes place, it is important to recognize the signs of its onset. Some mares are obvious in their outward indications, while others simply lie down and have their foals. The first sign is distension of the udder about two to six weeks before foaling. The second indicator, about seven to ten days before foaling, is the shrinking of the muscles in the croup area due to a relaxation of the pelvic muscles and ligaments. Four to six days prior, the teats fill out their nipples. Next a waxy secretion builds up on the nipples two to four days before foaling; within twenty-four hours the wax may drop off and milk drips off.
The first phase of parturition is preparation. The mare often becomes nervous, lying down and getting up. Tail raising or switching, sweating, urination and mild signs of colic are common. This usually lasts for two to three hours. Uterine contractions begin, but may be transitory. The end of phase one is marked by the expulsion of two to five gallons of "water" (chorioallantoic fluid). This first phase is usually begun at night.
Phase two is activation. Uterine contractions increase and the cervix is dilated, and the mare may lie down, roll and get up repeatedly. The feet of the foal will protrude, the bottoms of the hooves facing downward, with the nose just behind them. This stage generally takes ten to fifteen minutes.
Expulsion of the fetus is the third stage, when the mare will lie down and labor begins. Increased uterine contractions expel the fetus in approximately fifteen minutes. The mare will usually remain lying down for about ten minutes, providing herself with a period of rest and allowing the foal time to orient itself to its environment. The umbilical core may not break immediately, which is fine, as it allows for further transfer of blood between mare and foal. The cord will usually break when the foal stands. After the breakage, treat the stump with a solution of iodine.
The last phase is the expulsion of the membranes. Abdominal pains, similar to mild colic, maybe seen when the placenta is passed, and may continue for a few hours after. This phase usually occurs in fifteen minutes to one hour. If the placenta has not been expelled within six to nine hours a veterinarian needs to be called. Retained placenta can cause many problems, among them laminitis, metritis, and infertility.
Dystocia is difficulty during parturition, which fortunately happens seldomly in mares. Leaving the horse alone to deliver is usually the best way to handle foaling. If concerned about the health and safety of mare and foal install a window or monitor through which you can watch the process without interrupting or disturbing the mare. Foaling usually occurs in the early hours of the morning and is a fairly rapid process. When problems develop, it is during the activation phase that they can be corrected. Do not rush the mare; let her foal naturally and without interference.
After delivery the foal should nurse within thirty minutes to two hours. Colostrum is present in this first milk, and it is essential that the foal receive the antibodies it contains. About 10 to 15 percent of newborn foals have a failure of passive transfer, and another 10 to 15 percent have a partial failure. To check you foal the concentration of immunoglobulin in the blood it is tested twelve to eighteen hours after birth. If necessary, administer colostrum and check again in twelve hours.
Knowing the normal progression of events during foaling can help you relax and enjoy the birth of your baby. Let your mare foal as naturally as possible without distractions, then you can concern yourself with caring for the newborn. Or you can be like many mare owners; go to bed and wake up the next morning with the newcomer contentedly nursing, no stress!

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Supplemental Knowledge

By Carla Huston, BES
Today's horse market holds a bewildering array of supplements that claim to be essential to your horse's good health, or promise to cure a variety of ailments. Deciding which claims are justified and which are the products of the copywriter's imagination can be both a lengthy process and an expensive one. Manufacturers have plenty of competition for the horse owner's dollar, and it is often easier to follow the company's every recommendation rather than doing the necessary research to determine if your horse really needs a particular product. For those who do not understand the horse's requirements it is easy to be swayed by the advertisement words; backed with knowledge of what the products really do for the horse the owner can make informed choices about where to spend his money.
A salt block is one of the simplest and most essential equine supplements. The sodium and chloride provide many functions in the horse's body; they contribute to the fluid and acid-base balance, nerve impulses and muscular movements. The requirement for each individual is variable, dependent on environmental temperature, water intake and exercise level. Free access salt should be provided. A horse will consume the appropriate amount, provided adequate water is available; in the absence of a suitable supply of water one may overeat. With resumed water intake the result is a loose bowel.
Another common and important supplement for the horse is a trace mineral block. Unlike the salt block that is white, the trace mineral one is red and contains the essential minerals required by the horse's body in very small amounts. Some of those included are copper, zinc, iodine, iron and selenium; the amount needed in the horse's diet is expressed in parts per million (ppm). The amounts of these trace minerals required again varies by individual. Growing foals, lactating mares and pregnant mares have different needs from the mature horse. Another predisposing factor is the bioavailability of the minerals, meaning the efficiency with which the animal absorbs and utilizes the minerals. A third factor is the amount of minerals found in the soil the horse is grazing or from which the hay was produced. For this reason it is very important to feed a balanced ration. Free access to a trace mineral block will generally provide the proper amounts assuming the rest of the diet is balanced for the individual.
Many horse owners add a protein supplement to their horses' diets. For animals with a high-protein requirement - growing foals, lactating mares, and mares in the late stage of pregnancy - the additional supplementation may be indicated. Common protein supplements are alfalfa, soybean meal, legume pellets, milk products and dried brewer's yeast. However, most rations contain excess protein. There is a mistaken assumption on many people's part that as the horse's work load increases or as outside temperature decreases the protein requirement goes up. Additional protein is not harmful to the horse and some of the excess is converted to energy. Nitrogen is a product of the conversion process and is eliminated from the body via urine (urine output is increased as is the ammonia smell). But protein is an expensive nutrient to feed, and it makes more financial sense to increase the energy provided by the diet and keep the protein levels close to the recommended amount for the individual.
Biotin is a currently popular supplement for the horse. It is a part of the B-complex vitamins, a group of ten water-soluble vitamins. Many believe that supplementation of biotin to the horse's diet will promote hoof growth and cure hoof ailments. The normal horse, though, has sufficient biotin syntheses by the intestinal bacteria at a high enough level that a supplement is not required. The only time a biotin supplement may be necessary is with a horse that has a reduced intestinal function. This may be an older animal, one with an intestinal illness or one that has been on long-course antibiotics. Some feed companies automatically add biotin to their commercial feeds and charge the consumer accordingly. However, it may be wiser to feed a ration that provides the required nutrients and add an outside source of biotin as your veterinarian or farrier prescribes.
In the last decade a new food supplement has hit the market that has veterinarians, farriers and owners impressed by its actions. Methyl-sulfonyl-methane (MSM) is a source of bioavailable sulfur, a nutrient with assorted uses in the animal body, one of the most important being the ability to keep tissues elastic. It is most often used by owners searching for a therapy for arthritic horses or lameness problems. There is little scientific evidence of its efficacy, but anecdotal reports are very promising. It should not be considered a cure-all, even though claims may be made about its multiple uses. It is still essential that the owner investigates all possible causes of the discomfort and consults a veterinarian for diagnosis and therapeutic prescriptions.
There are many other supplement products on the market. The "flex" products are a chondroitin source that claims to act on joints and elastic tissues to promote flexibility. Many companies have begun marketing herbal supplements that contain kelp, rose hip and a sprinkling of vitamins, minerals, biotin and probiotics, and are designed to affect hoof growth, hair quality, weight gain and energy level. Other supplements are made up of individual vitamins to address a specific malady - nervousness, stamina, etc. Often, in the owner's attempt to cover all the bases of equine nutrition and performance, they top feed more supplements than there is grain in the base ration. Some of these supplements may even contraindicate one another. If a little is good, more is not better.
The important thing to remember is most of these supplements are categorized as nutritional additives, and therefore, are not under Food and Drug Administration influence. Limited scientific testing is usually done. While none of these products are dangerous to the horse themselves, it is dangerous to rely on them for health care in place of routine veterinary checks, proper daily maintenance, good nutrition, clean environment and professional farriery. Take the manufacturer's words with a grain of salt; advertisements are designed to sell product and may contain a fair amount of hyperbole. Always consult with professionals before starting your horse on a new additive.

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The True Cost of Shoeing a Horse

Coauthors, Carla Huston and Ray Miller
When you search for a farrier, one of the first things that you consider is the cost of shoeing and trimming. Do you really know what it should cost to have your horses trimmed and shod? There are many factors to consider: Is the person full-time or part-time, do they belong to any farriers' organizations, do they have an education (farrier school, college degrees, etc.), and how long has the person been shoeing? A full time farrier may see as many as 11,000 hoofs a year while a part time shoer maybe 500. There can be a big gap in the knowledge of a full time professional and the person down the road who has another job, or the person who went to a two-week course or self study.
We are just now being able to prove that improper trimming and shoeing as acolt, or continued improper shoeing and trimming will lead to lameness earlier in a horse life. The theories in shoeing are changing as we can prove with science study and our new technologies what is going on with the horse in biomechanical movements.
There can be a big gap in price and cost of doing business in shoeing and trimming, between the part timer and just starting out Farrier and the full time Professional Farrier. A lot of part-timers don't carry the equipment or have the shop, don't but and carry any type of insurance.
WHO PAYS THE BILLS IF YOUR HORSE INJURES THEM?
You may want to check with your attorney or your state workers compensation board. They don't maintain a truck or van just for shoeing, (they use the truck or car to drive to work). Back to the original question:
WHAT DOES IT COST THE FARRIER TO SHOE YOUR HORSE?
The answer can be found by calculating costs, just as any other type of business must. In this article, I am going to look at a full time professional farrier, with any other source of income, full or part time job, inheritance, not living at home with parents, spousal support, etc.
SALARY, what the farrier wants to earn for a gross income (before taxes): Beginning Farrier, six weeks shoeing school, $24,000.00 a year, Journeyman Farrier with continuing education $36,000.00 a year and a Master Farrier with continuing education $40,000.00 a year. Add a college degree of four-year BS/Equine Science and add $5000.00 a year to base salary; a six-year degree M/S Equine Sience and add $8000.00 per year. If the person has teaching credentials and further education you could add as much as $25,000.00 per year to the base salary. These figures are what the average is outside the equine industry and within the salesforce that services the equine industry. So the range of salary for a full time farrier can range from $24,000.00 per year to a high of $49,000.00 per year gross income.
Let us say our farrier is a Journeyman with a four-year college degree. His salary should be at $41,000.00 per year, divided by twelve months = $3416.00 per month, divided by 4.33 weeks in a month = $788.91 per week. Say he is a suburban shoer, working an 8-hour day. His day rate is then $157.78 a day; averaging five horses per day = $31.55 per horse in just labor. But he wants that income for a year. So you need to add the cost of eight traditional holidays (Christmas, New Year, Easter, Labor Day, etc.). Then add a couple of paid sick days per years of service, lets say five days, and a couple of personnel days. So now, instead of 359.8 days a year, he is working 234.80 days at $170.00 per day, divided by five horses = $34.00 per horse. The cost of labor for trims would be $14.16 per horse at 12 a day.
Retirement needs to be planned for the end of a long hard journey of say 20 to 45 years. The farrier should have been putting away 10% of his income which is $341.60 a month, of which the employer, usually, places matching funds. These funds must be figured into the cost of the business of shoeing a horse. The amount came to $4099.20 per year, divided by the number of shoeings of 1,174 = $3.49 per shoeing. Trimming 2,817.60 horses it would increase the cost of trims at $1.27. The costs for just the farriers labor of shoeing is $37.49 per horse. If he is trimming the cost for trimming would be $15.43.
Now start the BUSINESS EXPENSE. What expenses, you say! First is the transportation to your location. A van or shoeing truck, new, costs $25,000.00. Driving 200 miles per day = 46,960 miles per year. If it lasts about three years = $8,333.33 per year in replacement cost of gas, tires, maintenance, etc. I will use the average payment to a person using their own car for an employer. This is now 32 cents per mile, or $15,027.20 per year, or $12.80 per horse. Total cost per horse = $19.80. Also keep in mind that any service person coming to your home or office charges a trip charge, such as Sears & Roebuck, local phone companies, plumbers, office machine repair and veterinarians etc. The farrier is the only one who finds it hard to convince an owner that it costs money to come to their place to shoe or trim a horse. Would you the owner, be willing to take the time to catch, load, hook on to your trailer, drive to the farrier? You could add as much as a day 1/2 day of your labor to the labor of your farrier. Is your time worth anything?
Continuing education, this person will attend the farrier's conventions and workshops. Going to a couple of seminars within the year, they will need to figure in travel expense and cost of being away from the business, for a total of 10 days throughout the year, $65,000.00 = $5.53 per horse.
INSURANCE??? Remember a full time professional will carry insurance: Health Insurance at $3,000.00 per year, Care, Custody & Control, $12,000.00, ($100,000.00 per horse) Liability, $25,000.00 per year, ($300,000.00 policy), Truck, $3000.00 per year, Comprehensive on equipment, $1500 per year, Workman's Compensation, $1200 = $10.56 per horse.
EMPLOYEES, to do what? Many, many things: scheduling, bookkeeping, answer the phone, designing and sending newsletters, working in the field with horses, ordering shoes and supplies, answering mail, working with owners understanding what the farrier is doing. At $20,000.00 per year plus insurance, vacation, taxes, Worker's Compensation = $26,000.00 per year = $22 per horse. Also remember that even if a farrier doesn't hire a person to do this work, he will do it himself or hire someone outside the business, such as a C.P.A. (my C.P.A. charges $120.00 per hour, my attorney charges $195.00 per hour) or H & R Block, temporary office help, etc. Remember, time is money; whether under a horse or in an office, he or she is still working, because of your horse. A lot of farriers forget to figure this part of the business as labor.
OFFICE EXPENSES, in home of $2600.00, phone(incoming and outgoing lines, 800 number) = $6,000.00 per year. Replacement of office equipment (ink cartridges, paper, computer parts, etc.), and repair $1500 per year = $8.60 per horse.
ADVERTISING & MARKETING, $5,000 per year, (business cards, newspaper ads, flyers, postage, reminder cards, horse flairs, etc.) per year = $4.25 per horse.
REPLACING LOST, DAMAGED AND USED EQUIPMENT, (forge, gas tanks, hand tools, apron, rasp, shoeing knife, etc.), $200 per month = $2.74 per horse. How many times has your shoer dropped or left something behind?
TRADE PUBLICATIONS, subscriptions (Wisconsin Horesman, Farrier Journal, Hoof & Lameness, Michael Plumb's Horse Journal, Equus, Western Horsemen etc.) $300 per year = .25 per horse.
MEMBERSHIP in trade association, WBFA, AFA, $300 per year = .25 per horse.
Cost of keg shoes and nails $6.75 per horse. Specialty and therapeutic shoes, hot forging all add additional costs.
The total cost of shoeing your one horse is $127.88. If your farrier is just trimming horses, you would deduct the cost of shoes which would leave you at $121.13, divided by three horses, $40.37 per horse. A person can usually trim three horses at the same time needed to shoe one horse.
IF THIS IS A TRUE BUSINESS we have only talked about expenses and not about the business of making a profit. Paying a salary to owner and any employees is not making a profit for the business. Any business owner wants to make a profit on the money they have out into the business. A fair profit is 13% on investment. Add another $16.24 on the cost of shoeing or a total of $144.50 to shoe and $45.61 to trim a horse.
THE LAST ITEM TO ADD IS SALES TAX, yes some states such as Wisconsin charges sales tax. Often it adds another five percent to 6 percent to the cost of shoeing. Depending in what county you live in. In this case we will use the five and one-half percent or $7.94 to the cost of shoeing. Making it $152.44 per horse. Trims, agian using the five and one-half percent making it $2.25 to the cost of trimming total $47.88 to trim.
One thing you will need to remember, other items do run the cost of shoeing and trimming up. If you are the one, two, three horse owners, or out in the country and you cannot put a group of horses together for the farrier to spend the day, travel expenses increase. If you are a long way out, he has a lot of travel time and possible overnight expense. Or if your horse has a problem about standing quietly for the farrier and it takes longer to shoe or trim, he cannot complete as much work; time is money to your farrier. As a rural owner you should expect to pay a higher rate than at a barn or an area that has a lot of horses in it, just as you should if you have hard to handle animals.
Also, think about the quality of the farrier's work. How much work experience and further education does the person have? Does he do a lot of therapuetic work? Is he in demand? Is he working after hours or on weekends and holidays? The question I ask is do you, the horse owner, receive overtime, night bonus, holiday pay? Remember that most full-time farriers start early in the morning and are expected to work when you get home from your job in the evening. Some will work 20 hour days. Horse shoeing is not a hobby for them, it is a full-time profession. They really care about your horse and what is best for that horse. A lot of full time farriers will work a double shift because they cannot expect to receive the true cost of shoeing or trimming your horse. Now other things can bring the cost down. For example, is he part-time not running a true business, cutting corners on expenses, or is there another full-time job covering some expenses, such as personal insurance, it is the family van or truck, instead of company equipment? Is he young and living at home with parents? Is he only staying within a few miles of the home? Do you bring the horse to them? Does he only do one or two horses a week for extra money, by that keeping the cost down?
Remember that a full-time professional farrier will see a lot more problems and triple the number of feet that a part-time farrier will see. The proper insurance will be in force to protect both the owner the farrier. And he will definitely have a better understanding of the equine.
Now you know why a lot of farriers and horse shoers go and come; very few can afford to stay in the business. The full-timer soon learns that he can go to work as a truck driver and make $35,000.00 per year, or a brick layer at $35.00 per hour plus benenfits. Plus have evenings, holidays and weekends off.
Never getting kicked, bitten of pawed are added benefits. Your full-time professional farrier also becomes an extra set of eyes. He will look at your horse in an independent objective way, giving you insight as to what is happening with the entire animal. He may spot problems that you have not seen. By seeing the horse regularly, he may identify changes taking place that you should contact a veterinarian about. As a owner, this input is invaluable.
So the next time you shop for a shoer because yours is no longer in business, think about why. He has probably gotten tired from working double shifts or found a better job. Those that stay in are usually there for the love of the horse.

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Which Way: Ideal or Optimal

By Carla Huston
Raising and caring for a horse requires the owner to follow one of two concepts: developing and handling the animal in a way that is ideal for that particular individual, or managing him so that the demands placed on him follow a generic pattern that does not account for the differences between horses, optimal. In this context, ideal implies controlling the factors that contribute to a horse's general health, and the result is in the animal's best interest. The other method, however, involves pushing the horse to limits that may not be the healthiest for him, even when the short-term result indicates otherwise. It is the horse's long-term well-being that is the goal.
One of the earliest decisions between these two concepts comes when the foal begins eating his own ration. At this time the owner must develop a diet for the youngster that will fulfill his nutritional requirements. But it is also possible to feed a ration that will encourage growth that is too rapid. When a ration is designed primarily for accelerated growth it often becomes unbalanced, and the problem becomes twofold. First, the imbalance in nutrients, particularly with minerals, interferes with the horse's metabolism and affects the development of tendons, ligaments and bones. Second, the high-energy diet often puts more weight on the foal's frame than is healthy and the stress can be very damaging. An ideal growth pattern is one that allows the young horse to develop at a natural rate of gain that doesn't stress the joints and support structures. Feeding a proper diet will help avoid some of the problems foals encounter, such as epiphysitis and osteochondrosis. Following a more moderate program will mean the weanling and yearling will not be as developed as their peers who were pushed for early, fast growth, however, as maturity approaches the horse will be healthier, having gone through the stages of development in the right sequence and at the correct time.
Another aspect of this debate also relates to the young horse, the start of training under saddle. It has become common practice to begin schooling a horse as a long yearling or a two year old, and to expect him to be finished as a three or four year old. At this time, though, he is just reaching physical and mental maturity. Some animals at two have reached enough size that they appear ready to start training; yet it is important to remember that the growth plates in the bones have not completely closed, and the joints can be easily damaged by too much repetitive work. Just because the horse appears full-grown, there is still a great deal of development that must be completed. These young horses are also immature mentally. Their attention span is short, and they can be easily confused when confronted with too much information. Many training problems that arise later can be traced back to early schooling that was rushed, or steps that were skipped to quickly reach a desired result. Ideally, the owner can wait until the young horse is closer to maturity before starting him under saddle, and then can move slowly through the levels of training. This eliminates many of the "holes" found in older horse that are sent to be reschooled. Delaying training until the horse is physically stronger will also prevent some of the maladies that affect horses as they age. Arthritis, ringbone and sidebone are a few of the conditions that may cause lameness in relatively young animals, and in many cases may be partially attributed to the intensity of the work underwent as a youngster. For example, the European method of training generally calls for starting a horse at the age of four or five and the finished horse is one nearing his teens, if then. Many horses remain in competition until their late teens, even at the international level. This method requires more patience on the part of the owner/rider, but the dividends are well worth it when you have a sound, usable horse in his twenties.
Hoof care is one more area where the owner must choose the method by which they will handle their horse. It has become a common belief that the horse must have four perfectly round hooves that all point straight ahead, despite the conformation of the individual animal. This arrangement may be aesthetically pleasing to the human eye, but rarely serves the horse best. The feet are designed to support the horse's body mass, and therefore grow to where the weight is distributed. When the hooves are trimmed or shod to change them from the natural position the result will eventually be detrimental to his health and way of moving, even though the appearance is more "normal." An ideal hoof for a particular horse is one allowed to remain as it naturally grows, trimmed and balanced to maintain that position. Consequently, if a horse has some rotation in a joint or the column of bone he will be toed-in or toed-out to some degree. To correct that deviation by straightening the hoof will place stress on the other structures. The horse will remain functional with this alteration for a while, but over time problems will develop, often causing a variety of lamenesses. It is also important to let the hoof develop a thick wall with the necessary flares. Filing the outer wall down until it is perfectly symmetrical and small will alter how the foot bears the horse's weight.
Balancing human and horse interests is a constant challenge for the conscientious owner. It requires evaluation of the rider's goals and the horse's well-being and their compatibility. And it requires the ability to judge the long-term effects of today's actions. As horse lovers we all want our animals to be healthy and useful for decades, not just years, which means following the route that encourages the ideal development of the individual, rather than prescribing to a preconceived notion of how the horse should look and perform.
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Winterize Your Horse

By Carla Huston BES
As the cold months of winter close around us concern for our horse's health and condition becomes more pressing. Aspects of management that are most important are temperature maintenance, nutrition and hoof care. By monitoring these, keeping your horse in top health can be easy and fairly trouble-free.
First let us look at keeping your horse's body temperature maintained at the proper level. Evaluate his living qualities; is he strictly pasture-bound, or does he split his time between a box stall and turnout. For horses that spend much time outdoors a windblock or shelter is necessary, whether it is natural or manmade. If your horse is both an indoor and outdoor kind be sure to watch your barn temperature and your animal's hair growth. During the mild early months of winter allow your horse to develop his thick coat and acclimatize to the dropping temps. Avoid blanketing during this time; you really are not helping your horse by preventing him from experiencing the changing weather conditions. As the season progresses, again watch how you use blankets. If your horse has been properly acclimated, they will be unnecessary; your horse should stay comfortable as the temperature falls provided he has an area in which to escape the wind and wet. The danger with blanketing outdoor-bound horses is they tend to slip causing rubbing and sores, and may become damp themselves, serving to chill the horse, not warm him. When you do blanket be sure someone is available to monitor the horse - adjusting if necessary, and removing if they become damp or the temperature rises.
Next check your feeding system and ration. This will depend a great deal on the amount of work your horse gets and his stage of maturity. Let us assume that the animal is mature and under light work. This type needs about 1 percent of his body weight per day in good quality roughage. A well-cured grass hay will be sufficient. You may add a grain concentrate to this if your horse requires one. If your horse starts losing condition increase the energy content of his ration - not the protein. Energy is calories, and that is where the horse will draw the fuel to maintain body heat. A horse will drink six to ten gallons of water per day; it is crucial that he has a fresh and clean source at all times. Through the colder months this will mean chipping the ice out at each feeding, a tedious but essential task. Salt and trace mineral blocks are necessary year round, so make certain your's is accessible, out of the snow and slop.
Finally, don't forget your hoof care. Growth of the hoof wall is determined by nutrition, and during the cold months this goes toward maintaining body condition, not excessive hoof growth. Consequently, many owners believe they can forget the farrier until spring arrives. This is not in the best interests of your horse. The hoof will probably grow at least a small amount and need balancing to keep its proper shape and avoid any unnatural wear. Even more importantly, the farrier will check the sole for bruising that may occur on the hard ground and ice. Many of the abscesses that develop in early spring can be attributed to undiagnosed bruises that started in winter. It is well-worth the cost of his visit to keep those four feet in superior condition. If you do heavy winter riding and like to keep your horse shod consider having your farrier apply a snowball pad. This is a plastic pad with a ball in the center that prevents snow and ice from building around the shoe. Regardless if your horse is shod or not, clean his feet daily. When snow lumps develop, walking on them could cause some tendon and joint strain. If your horse is shod during the riding season and you like to keep the shoes on during winter too, consider pulling them for four to eight weeks. This allows the heels to rest (constant shoe wear contributes to contracted heels) and the hoof wall to thicken slightly.
Winter does not have to be a time of little riding and much work. Instead allow nature to progress and continue a top management program. Then saddle up and have a good ride.